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खुमार और खून हमजाद़ हैं यहाँ

युवा कथाकार-पत्रकार आशुतोष भारद्वाज की ‘नक्सल डायरी’ की दूसरी किस्त. 
सरगुजा, बीजापुर, बस्तर-दंतेवाड़ा के इलाके अब नक्सल-प्रभावित इलाके कहलाते हैं. इनके घने जंगलों के बीच जो जीवन धडकता है अनिश्चयता के भय और आतंक के साये में वह कितना बदल रहा है. यह आशुतोष की कलम का जादू है- वह नक्सलियों पर नहीं उनके सायों पर लिखा रहे हैं. क्या कुछ बन रहा है, क्या बिगड रहा है. पत्रकार की सूक्ष्म दृष्टि, कथाकार की भाषा. किसी ज़माने में जो ‘न्यू जर्नलिज्म’ कहलाता था. अद्भुत- जानकी पुल.

सितंबर। सरगुजा जिले के किसी कोटर में बरसात के बीच अटके एक गांव की सुबह।
यहां आना तय नहीं था। परसों रात तकरीबन सवा सौ किलोमीटर दूर बलरामपुर थाने में पुरानी फाइल्स पलटते वक्त एक जगह अटक गया— लूट की रकम के बंटवारे पर नक्सली कमांडर की उसके साथियों द्वारा हत्या।
नक्सलियों में कत्ले-आम— वो भी लूट की रकम! बलरामपुर पुलिस ने आश्वस्त किया था कि सरगुजा के नक्सलियों में ऐसे झगड़े आम हैं, यहां गांववाले भी बतलाते हैं उस कमांडर की लूटमारी का यहां लगभग आतंक था। पैंतीस साल का वह कुछ समय पहले झारखंड से बीस-पच्चीस साल के कुछ युवकों को ले आया था, उन्हें ‘नक्सली बना ट्रेनिंग दे रहा था।‘ यह युवक उसके टोले में थे, सब एक साथ जंगलों में रहते थे। कुछ महीने पहले बड़ी रकम हाथ लगी। छः लाख। इसने उनका ‘हिस्सा’ नहीं दिया, कत्ल नतीजतन।
कुंए और मक्के के खेत के सामने अपने घर में बाईस साल की यह लड़की इस सुबह अपने पति को याद करती है। अपने पति के परिवार पर आश्रित। गरीब किसान परिवार लेकिन इस लड़की के हाथ में सोने की परत वाली घड़ी। सिल पर मसाले पीसती है, चूल्हे पर सब्जी तलती है, भुट्टे सेंकती है— आंगन में खनकती बूंदों के दरमियां रंगीन चूडि़यों बीच ढुलकती घड़ी बजती रहती है। इस पूरे प्रदेश में कोई ग्रामीण महिला अब तक नहीं देखी जो घड़ी पहने हो, यह भी याद नहीं आता कब किसी औरत को सिल पर बट्टा घिसते वक्त घड़ी पहने देखा था।
उन्होंने गिफ्ट की थी?
क्या?
उपहार में दी थी आपको?
उसकी आंखें अभी भी चौंकती हैं।
उन्होंने ही दी होगी शायद, तभी तो आप इतनी सुबह भी काम करते वक्त इसे पहने हैं।
तो…उनकी पत्नी हैं हम। ब्याह कर लाये थे हमें, उनका दिया नहीं पहनेंगे तो फिर किसका।
यह उस कमांडर की दूसरी पत्नी है। पहली इसकी बड़ी बहन। इस गांव से सटे थाने के थानेदार ने बतलाया था और इसने भी कहा कि उससे सिर्फ लड़कियां पैदा हुई थीं इसलिये वह इसे ब्याह लाया। लेकिन इसने यह भी बतलाया वह कमांडर बहुत पहले से इसे पसंद करता था। पुलिस के रजिस्टर में मृतक की पत्नी बतौर छोटी बहन का नाम ही दर्ज।
रजिस्टर बंद करते हुये थानेदार धीरे से यह भी बोला था, ‘अगर वह अपनी पहली पत्नी को घर से बाहर निकाल अपने से चौदह साल छोटी उसे ब्याह ले आया तो क्या हैरत, आप देखेंगे तो पता चलेगा।‘
वह देर तक अपने पति को बतलाती है। ‘बनिये ने झूठे केस में फंसा पुलिस से पिटवाया, फिर वो नक्सली बन गये… जंगल में रहते थे, तीन-चार महीने में एक बार घर आते थे… एक-दो बार जेल भी गये, बाहर आ थोड़ा समय ठीक रहे फिर नक्सली बन गये।
नक्सली बन गये? कैसे बना जाता है नक्सली?
वो थे तो सही।
वो लोगों से पैसा क्यों लूटते थे?
तो…कैसे काम करते फिर? जंगल की रक्सा कैसे करते?
जंगल?
हाँ, जंगल के रक्सक थे।
वह सिका भुट्टा बढ़ा देती है। आंगन में गिरती बूंदों के दूसरी ओर ससुर की सी उम्र वाले उसके जेठ चार किनारे वाले किसी रईनुमा यंत्र से रस्सी बुन रहे हैं।
आप आगे कैसे करेंगी?
उसे हर बार की तरह प्रश्न समझ नहीं आता।
बहुत कम उमर है आपकी, दो संतान हैं।
फिर?
बेफिक्र वह भुट्टा कुतरती रहती है, सत्रह-अठारह की उम्र के अपने भतीजों को आवाज दे खेत से दो-चार भुट्टे और तोड़ लाने को कहती है। भतीजे उसे घेरे रहते हैं। भतीजे अपने चाचा के किस्से सुनाते हैं गोया चाचा कोई क्रिकेट खिलाड़ी था या तीरंदाज जो दूर इलाकों में अपने हुनर का प्रदर्शन करने जाता था। भतीजों के लिये नक्सली होना मतलब चेहरे पर गमछा बांध कहीं से मिल गयी बारह बोर की बंदूक घुमाने लग पड़ो — दो चार सिपहियों को टपका दो, लोगों को धौंसिया दो।
वह पांचवे भुट्टे पर आ गयी है। उसकी ढाई साल की बड़ी प्यारी सी बिटिया ठुमकते हुये अमरूद कुतरती आ जाती है, छः महीने का बेटा भी।
‘बाबू…बाबू…।‘ वह बच्चे को गोद में ले लेती है।
बाबू! किसी मासूम से दिखते शब्द में न मालूम कौन ध्वनि सुलगने लगती है। स्मृति भी कमबख्त!
अगस्त का अंत। भोपालपट्नम, बीजापुर जिले का गांव। रात दस।
यहां बिजली बहुत कम आती है। पिछले पांच दिनों में महज कुछ घंटे। शाम से अंधेरा। बादल-बरसात की वजह से सूरज भी बूंद भर बस, लड़खड़ाती हुई सोलर लैंप कहीं दिख जाती हैं। थाने में, जहां बड़ा संयत्र लगा है सौर उर्जा का, बल्ब टिमटिम। संयत्र चार्ज ही नहीं होने पाता। वैसे भी थाना बेचारा फटी चादर और तिरपाल की छत के नीचे जुगाड़ भर में जी रहा है। इस थाने पर कुछ साल पहले बड़ा नक्सली हमला हुआ था,  चिंताबाघू नदी और चिंताजनक जंगलों से घिरा नक्सलियों का गढ़ यह। थाने के चारों ओर कंटीली बाढ़ जिसके पीछे एके-47लिये मुस्तैद जवान।
इस डरावने और स्याह अंधेरे में लेकिन एक दुकान जगमग। डीजल नहीं, पेट्रोल का जैनरेटर कि आवाज न हो। आसपास के इलाके में शायद अकेला जैनरेटर। इस थाने और उन्नीस किलोमीटर दूसरे थाने भद्रकाली में भी जैनरेटर नहीं। भद्रकाली पुलिस की जैनरेटर दरख्वास्त न जाने कब से रायपुर पुलिस मुख्यालय में सूख रही है।
इस दुकानमालिक को लेकिन कोई फिक्र नहीं कि इस गांव में पेट्रोल अपनी बाजार कीमत से पच्चीस रुपया अधिक मिलता है, परचूने की दुकान पर। सबसे नजदीकी पेट्रोल पंप यहां से पचास-पचपन किलोमीटर दूर, सड़क बहुत खराब।
मस्त दुकानमालिक। कई बल्ब, ट्यूब लाइट अंदर बाहर चमकते हैं कि पीले बोर्ड पर लिखी इबारत दूर से ही दिख जाये— अंग्रेजी शराब की दुकान। इस रात पूरे गांव में कोई आहट नहीं, सभी अपने घरों में मच्छरदानी लगाये बंद। यह दुकान व्हाइट हाउस की तरह खिली हुई है, कर्मचारी बेखौफ गल्ले पर बैठे जी सिनेमा देख रहे हैं। दुकान के बाहर एक लंबी सफेद कार।
इस गांव, जहां अधिकांश गरीबी रेखा से नीचे, में किसी भी अन्य दुकान की दैनिक बिक्री बमुश्किल पांच सौ-हजार रुपये, लेकिन यहां रोज बारह-पंद्रह हजार की बोतलों का खेल। इस दुकान को नक्सलियों का डर न यहां की गरीबी से कोई बाधा। कौन ग्राहक इनका यहा? दुकानवाला बताता है पुलिसिये तो नहीं खरीदते। क्या नक्सली? लेकिन उनके पास इतना पैसा कहां से आता है? विदेशी कंपनियों को गरियाते वे तो शायद महुये को ही अपना राष्ट्रीय पेय मानते होंगे न? दुकानवाला चुप रह जाता है।
दो दिलचस्प चीजें — यह दुकान थाने के ठीक बगल में है। दूसरे, सबसे अधिक यहां बीयर बिकती है। लोकल ब्रांड बहुत कम। किंगफिशर, हेवर्ड्स ही नहीं, बडवाइजर, डेनमार्क की कार्ल्सबर्ग और ऑस्ट्रेलियाई फाॅस्टर्स भी सजी हैं यहां।
पैट्रोल, बिस्कुट, कोल्ड ड्रिंक इत्यादि इस गांव में अपनी कीमत से कहीं अधिक पर बिकती हैं, दारू लेकिन ठीक एमआरपी पर। मदिरा का शांत और उदात्त वैभव।
शरद पूर्निमा की आधी रात। बस्तर-दंतेवाड़ा के बीच सड़क किनारे खाली मैदान में, मुर्गा बाजार।
अलबेला मेला सजा है। दशहरे के बाद आदिवासी मेला जोड़ते हैं। तकरीबन दो-ढाई हजार जुटे होंगे यहां। लड़के-लड़कियां आदमी-औरत घेरा बना नाच रहे हैं। धोती साधे एक ठिगनी बुजुर्ग महिला भी थिरकती आती है। महुआ पीये धुत्त एक बंदा बीच में लुटपुटा रहा है। सम्मिलित स्वर में आकाश फोड़ती एक तान उठती है, ढोल बजता है, कदम बिफरने-बौराने लगते हैं।
पूरी रात और कल रात भी हुड़दंग होगा। चाट-पकौड़ी, कपड़े, दुनिया भर की अटरम-सटरम दुकानें। रोशनी के लिये रेणु वाली पंचलैट और उसका थोड़ा निखरा रूप — सोलर लैंप। ताश पर जुआ,, किसी चीज पर रिंग फेंक उसे उठा लेने का खेल भी।
सबसे दिलचस्प चीज लेकिन कसीनो में खेले जाने वाले रूले का देसी वर्जन। गोल नहीं, चौकोर। एक लकड़ी का बोर्ड जिसमें कंचे बराबर कई सारे खांचे बने हैं। हर खांचे की एक संख्या। बोर्ड के चारों ओर लगभग एक फुट उॅंचा कांच। लोग संख्या पर दांव लगाते हैं फंदेबाज उपर से कंचा छोड़ता है जो कांच से टकराता, लुढ़कता किसी खांचे में आ अटक जाता है। न्यूनतम दांव दस रुपये।
सब कुछ पंचलैट की रोशनी में। रेणु को कहां मालूम होगा उनकी पंचलैट कितना रचनात्मक योगदान दे सकती है।
इन आदिवासियों को, जिनमें अधिकतर गोंडी के सिवाय हिंदी तक नहीं समझ पाते, यह विलायती खेल सूझा कैसे? कुछ लोग जो नागपुर, बिलासपुर तक हो आये हैं रूले अपने साथ ले आये हैं, यहां हीरो बन गये हैं।
कुछ जोशीले जाबांज लाल कलंगीदार मुर्गों को भड़का रहे हैं। मुर्गा-लड़ाई बड़ा शूरवीर खेल। जिसका मुर्गा उसका बैल।
सड़क पर पुलिस की लगभग एक बटालियन कि कहीं उपद्रव न हो जाये। खाकीवाले शरारती-उत्पाती युवकों को हड़काते हैं, बस नाम भर को लेकिन। आज इन आदिवासियों की रात है। पूरा खिला चांद नाचते हुये लड़के-लड़कियों के बीच उतर आया है। इस रात कोई खौफ नहीं — महुये, चावल को पीस कर बना पेय जो कई औरतें तम्हेढ़ी भर बना लायीं हैं, मुफ्त में बांट रहीं हैं। पत्ते के दोने में लड़कियां महुआ सुड़कती हैं।
भले सड़क पर बैरीकेड लगे हुये हैं, पुलिसवाले बंदूकें थामे चौकन्ने हैं लेकिन इस आदिम उन्माद को देख कह पाना असंभव- इसी सड़क से थोड़ा आगे कुछ दिन बाद लैंडमाइन विस्फोट में सीमा सुरक्षा बल का एक ट्रक उड़ने वाला है, मैदान से थोड़ा आगे जहां जंगल शुरु होता है वहां बख्तरबंद कैंप लगे हैं जहां इस वक्त अगले हमले की तैयारी हो रही होगी।
यही इस जगह का जादू है — खुमार और खून हमजाद़ हैं यहाँ, हमबिस्तर हुये बगैर चैन नहीं उनको।
यह ग्यारह अक्टूबर की रात है।
 
      

About Prabhat Ranjan

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आप पढ़ रहे हैं तन्हाई का अंधा शिगाफ़। मीना कुमारी की ज़िंदगी, काम और हादसात …

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