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गंगा जैसे डांसिंग फ़्लोर पर चलती है


हाल में ही वरिष्ठ कवि निलय उपाध्याय साइकिल से कई महीनों की गंगा-यात्रा करके अपने शहर मुंबई लौटे हैं. वे इस यात्रा से जुड़े अनुभवों को कलमबद्ध करने में लगे हुए हैं. एक छोटा सा रोचक अंश उन्होंने जानकी पुल के पाठकों से साझा किया है- मॉडरेटर.
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सुबह का समय था। 
हिमालय  बहुत खुश था। कलगी पर बर्फ गिरनी आरम्भ हो गई थी और चार महीनों तक चुपचाप सोने के लिए हिमालय मन ही मन सपने बुनने लगा था और बिस्तर भी डाल ही चुका था। मैं जिस सडक से जा रहा था उसके एक ओर अलसाया सा हिमालय था दूसरी ओर गहरे में गंगा थोडी सिकुड कर बहती जा रही थी ।गंगा की आवाज  कानों में इस तरह गूंज रही थी जैसे मुझ पर निगाह रखती चल रही हो । सड्क खास थी…चीड चिनार और जाने कितने पेड के टूटे पत्तो से सजी, पांव पडते तो चुर्र से आह कर किनारे हट जाते। मै हिमालय की अलबेली हवा के संग अठखेलियां करता उमंगों और जिज्ञासाओ से भरा आगे बढता जा रहा था..।
यहीं कही होगा गांव गंगा का। 
आगे बढा तो पानी का एक झरना था, बहुत उंचा तो नहीं पर उसकी स्वर लहरियां बहुत प्यारी लगी। पहाड के जिस भाग से पानी नीचे उतर रहा था वह स्थान मुझे बडा ही मनोरम लगा । मै आराम से बैठ कर निहारता रहा और सोचता रहा कि काश मैं इस इलाके में जन्मा कोई पंछी होता. उडता हुआ सब कुछ देखता,सब कुछ जानता और इन्हीं के बीच कही समाप्त हो जाती मेरे पंखों की होड, मेरी जीवन लीला भी। एकाएक चमत्कार की तरह एक साधु पहाड के उपर और झरने के पास की नामालूम सी पगडण्डी से उतरता और मेरी ओर आता दिखाई पड गया। 
सिर पर बंधे लाल गमछे को पार कर बरगद के बरोह सी लटकती जटांए..।चौडा ललाट, तेज से भरी आंखे,, बडी बडी नाक, दाढी और चेहरे पर मुस्कान। लाल रंग का कुर्ता और नीचे मेरी नजर गई तो मन ही मन मुस्करा उठा, नीचे जिन्स पहने है साधुजी और तो और उनकी चप्पल भी स्टायलिश थी..
मेरी नजर उपर उठी-चेहरे पर वही मुस्कान।
एकाएक मै डर गया। 
आज के जमाने इस अकेली यात्रा में कम सामान होने के बाद भी लैपटाप था २० हजार का कैमरा था मोबाईल था, गरम कपडे थे..सामान एक लाख से कम का न होगा। कहीं किसी ने लूट लिया तो किन्तु जैसे ही उन पर नजर पडी लगा कि क्या क्या फ़ालतू चीजे मेरे दिमाग मे चल रही है। 
लेखक हो  ?
मैं भौंचक
गंगा यात्रा पर निकले हो?
मै भौंचक
गंगा को देखा है तुमने
इस बार मेरे मुंह से आवाज निकली..विलकुल उस बच्चे की तरह जो तुतलाता है और गलत शब्द मुंह से न निकल जाय इसलिए चुप रहता है, मैने कहा जी
      उसके स्वर में उत्तेजना थी-मैं कहता हूं नहीं देखा
इस बार मेरा प्रतिरोधी मन थोडा उपर उठा. वे क्षण याद आए जब जब गंगा का साथ रहा सोचा बता दू पर उसने वक्त ही नहीं दिया। 
चलो मेरे साथ
कहा और जबाब का इंतजार किए बिना इस तरह चल पडा जैसे मुझ पर धौंस जमा रहा हो जैसे मैं चल ही दूंगा उसके पीछे। कई बार यह भी अच्छा लगता है कि कोई हक से अपनी बात कहे। मुझे जाना चाहिए उसके साथ।
एकाएक पीठ के बैग पर फ़िर मेरी नजर गई और ख्याल आया-एक लाख का सामान होगा,कहीं लूट लिया तो…जैसे मेरे भीतर से किसी ने आश्वस्त किया-
चलो, कुछ नहीं होगा..
मैं पत्नी से कह कर निकला था कि यात्रा पूरी कर के ही आउंगा। यदि बीच में कहीं कोई समान छीन ले तो वापसी का पैसा भेज देना लौट्कर मुम्बई आ जाउंगा। ज्यादा से ज्यादा क्या होगा और मन में संशय लिए उसके साथ नीचे उतरने लगा।
     
वहां से साठ फ़ुट नीचे भागीरथी की मनोरम धारा थी। हम चलते हुए एक दम  नदी के तीर पर आ गए। गंगा बहती जा रही थी पर इस तरह तट्स्थ जैसे मैं वहां हूं ही नही। मैने साधु की ओर देखा और मुझसे कहे बिन रहा न गया।
बताईए
द्स मिनट आंख बन्द कर बैठो और पहले अपने दिमाग का कचरा निकाल दो फ़िर बात करते है। अभी बात करने का कोई फ़ायदा नही होगा-
यह कहते हुए वह गंगा को  देख रहा था। 
मैने सोचा..इस अनजान जगह पर बहस करने का कोई फ़ायदा नहीं ,आंख ही बंद करने को कह रहा है न और मैने आंखे बन्द कर ली।
हिमालय की हवाए आकर ट्कराई तो लगा जैसे उड रहा हूं। लगा जैसे मेरे शरीर के अज्ञात बंधन खुल रहे हो। अपने को इतना हलका,इतनी ताजगी से भरा कभी महसूस नही किया। सचमुच दस मिनट बाद महसूस हुआ कि इसकी मुझे जरूरत थी।
साधु की आवाज सुनाई पडी-गंगा को देखो
मेरी नजर गंगा पर गई -बहुत देख लिया है ,अब क्या देखूं।
गंगा की चाल देखो-
यहां क्या मैं तो कब से देखता आ रहा हूं.अल्हड लडकी सी उछलती कूदती चाल
जो तुम कह रहे हो वह गंगा की चाल नही है
तो
वह उस पानी की चाल है जो एक तत्व है
और गंगा की चाल..
मैं उसका चेहरा देखने लगा। उसने मेरे आशय को समझा और कहा-    
उधर देखो..
उसने उंगली का इशारा किया। उसकी उंगली बढती तो पानी को कहां जाकर छूती. मैं उस जगह को देखने लगा। पानी के तल पर वहां लट्टू की तरह घूम घूम कर नाचता भंवर सा था जो आगे भी बढता जा रहा था। उसके साथ अनेक छोटी बडी लहरियां थी। अब याद आया कि हम गंगा की यह चाल पहले भी देख चुके है। गांव में जब गंगा स्नान के लिए जाते थे..मां कहती कि पानी में जब बूडा नाचता है तब यह लहर बनती है, जो कईयों को निगल भी जाती है उधर मत नहाना। बूडा नाक कान में मिट्टी ठूस देते है। मुझे मां की बातों का स्मरण हो आया। लेकिन बात समझ में आ गई कि ये है गंगा की चाल।
मैं अवाक..
जानते हो यह चाल क्यो है?
मैने सिर्फ़ अपना सिर ना में हिलाया।
पहले यह धरती चलती है फ़िर उस पर गंगा चलती है। गंगा वह नदी है जो जैसे किसी डांसिंग फ़्लोर पर चलती है और इसी चाल के कारण वह हिमालय की मिट्टी अपने मैदानी इलाके मे ले जाती है और खेतो को उपजाऊ बनाती है।
मुझे यह बात अच्छी तरह समझ में आ गई। मन ही मन मैं कृतज्ञ था कि उसने मुझे इतनी महत्व पूर्ण बात बता दी। इसके पहले कि मैं धन्यवाद कहूं उसका अगला प्रश्न तैयार था
जानते हो कैसे बनी है गंगा..?
और स्वयं ही उत्तर देने लगा। एक बार शंकर ने गायन किया था और विष्णु पिघल गए थे। गंगा म्यूजिक है..उसे म्यूजिक की तरह देखो सुनो और समझो।
फ़िर विष्णु का क्या हुआ ?
शंकर का गायन सुन इस तरह गले कि बस पैरों के नाखून ही बच गए । घबरा कर ब्रहमा आ गए। विष्णु के पिघले जल को कमण्डल में समेट लिया और शंकर के सामने हाथ जोड लिए तब शंकर की तंद्रा टूटी। 
एकाएक जाने क्या हुआ कि उसका चेहरा गहरे तनाव से भर गया। उसने मुझे घूर कर देखा और कहा-क्या समझते हो तुम गंगा को? वह ब्रहमा के कमंडल में रही है-उसमे ब्रहमा के सृजन की क्षमता है। वह विष्णु के पिघलने से बनी है -उसमे विष्णु के पालन की क्षमता है। वह शिव की जटाओ से निकली है-उसमे शिव के संहार की भी क्षमता है। कवि विद्यापति मरने लगे..गंगा को पता चला कि वे उसे खोज रहे है, तो बच्ची सी दौडती चली गई  इतने प्यार से भरी। और अपने वसुओ को भी खा गई थी,अपने बेटों को मांग कर ले गई और मार दिया…  इतनी क्रूर है। किसी को माफ़ नही करती।
इस इलाके में कुछ माह पहले जो प्रलय तुम लोगों ने देखा था ,वह तो मात्र टेलर था,असली फ़िल्म तो आगे देखोगे।
कह कर वह चुप हो गया। चुप्पी तोडने के लिए मैने पूछा-
आपकी तस्वीर ले लूं
उसके चेहरे पर ब्यंग भरी मुस्कान खिल आई-ले लो
एक क्लिक, दूसरा तीसरा..और इक्कीस क्लिक किए मैने कैमरा में एक भी तस्वीर नहीं आई। अब मैं भौचक था। मैं उसकी ओर देख रहा था। कैमरा खराब तो नही। दूसरी ओर क्लिक किया तुरत तस्वीर आ गई..उसकी ओर फ़िर क्लीक किया, तस्वीर गायब।
मन में खयाल आया-कौन है यह आदमी?
अब तुम जाओ
कहकर वह मुड गया। मैने उसको रोका लेकिन वह नहीं माना। यही कहता कि अब तुम जाओ। मैं पीछे चलता रहा तो उपर सडक पर उसी झरने के पास आकर रूका। उसकी आवाज झरने की आवाज से मेल खाती थी-
क्या हुआ
सुनिए ना…अब तो आपसे बात करने का मन कर रहा है
मेरी आंखो में याचना थी-
बात करना है तो गंगा को खोजो, उसे बहुत बात करने की आदत है
गंगा मिल जाएगी मुझे
मुझे पूरी उम्मीद है कि मिल जाएगी..बल्कि अगर कहीं उसे पता चल गया कि तुम इस इलाके मे आए हो तो वह स्वयं तुम्हे खोज लेगी।
लेकिन
कुछ नही अब जाओ 
आखिर बार दृढता से कहने के बाद वह उसी पहाडी पर चढने लगा जिधर से आया था
और मै खडा खडा बस उसे जाते देखते रहा। गंगा का मतलब और उसकी चाल मैं समझ गया था। मन ही मन सोचा मुझे धरती की तरह चलना पडेगा..डांसिंग फ़्लोर की तरह चलना पडेगा…मैं पहले चलूंगा, फ़िर मेरी धरती चलेगी ,उसके उपर चलेगी मेरी गंगा ।
 
      

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