जानकी पुल – A Bridge of World's Literature. जानकी पुल पर प्रकाशित लेखों में प्रकट विचार लेखक के होते हैं. उनसे मॉडरेटर का सहमत होना जरूरी नहीं है. हाँ, अपने लेखों में प्रकट विचारों के लिए मॉडरेटर खुद जिम्मेदार है
कल मैंने फेसबुक पर भूतों से अपने डर की बात लिखी थी. उसमें मैंने रस्किन बांड का जिक्र किया था. मसूरी में रहने वाले इस लेखक ने भूतों के अपनी मुलाकातों के बारे में खूब लिखा है. अभी हाल में ही उनकी एक किताब मिली हिंदी अनुवाद में ‘अजब गजब मेरी दुनिया‘. किताब राजपाल एंड सन्ज प्रकाशन से प्रकाशित है. इसमें उन्होंने कुछ प्रसिद्ध भूतों के बारे में लिखा है. किताब का अनुवाद स्वाति अर्जुन ने किया है- प्रभात रंजन
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सेवॉय के भूत
सेवॉय होटल के बार के उपर लगी घड़ी की सुई 8.20 पर स्थिर है, और वो इस हालत में पिछले 50 सालों से है जब हिरोशिमा में एटम बम गिराया गया था. ये सब कुछ मुझे नंदु ने बताया था और उसपर भरोसा नहीं करने की मेरे पास कोई वजह नहीं थी. उसके कई ऐसे ही विचित्र किस्म की बातें आश्चर्यजनक तौर पर सच साबित होती थी.
मसूरी के इस होटल से जुड़ी कोई भी बात अक्सर असंभव सी हुआ करती थी, चाहे उसके समर्थन में सबूत ही क्यों न रख दिए गए हों. जैसे नंदु के अनुसार इस रेस्त्रां के एक पूर्व मालिक मि.मैक्किल्नटोक की नाक नकली थी, हालांकि उसने कभी देखा नहीं था. नंदु की बात कितनी सही थी ये पता करने के लिए मैंने बूढ़े नेगी से पूछा, नेगी इस होटल में काम करने आने वाला शुरुआती कर्मचारी था, वो 1932 (तब मेरा जन्म भी नहीं हुआ था) में होटल में रूम ब्वॉय हुआ करता था, और जो साठ साल बीत जाने और दो बीवियों के बाद, इस होटल के फ्रंट ऑफिस का कामकाज देखा करता है. नेगी के मुताबिक मि.मैक्किलन्टोक की नकली नाक वाली बात पूरी तरह से सही है.
‘मैं रात में मैंक्किलन्टोक साहिब को पीने के लिए कोको बनाकर दिया करता था. उनके रूम से बाहर निकलकर मैं एक खिड़की के पास छुपकर खड़ा हो जाया करता था और उन्हें देखता रहता. रात में बत्ती बंद करने से पहले जो अंतिम काम वो किया करते थे वो था अपनी नकली नाक निकालकर बिस्तर के पास टेबल पर रखना. वो कभी भी उसे पहनकर सोते नहीं थे. मेरे ख्याल से उसे पहनकर सोने में उन्हें काफी तकलीफ़ होती थी, खासकर करवट लेते वक्त़. फिर सुबह को उठने के साथ ही पहला काम जो वो किया करते थे वो था अपनी नकली नाक पहनना, चाय पीने से भी पहले. मैक्किलन्टोक साहिब एक महान आदमी थे.’
‘लेकिन उन्होंने अपनी नाक गंवाई कैसे?’ मैंने पूछा.
‘पत्नी ने काट लिया था,’ नंदु ने कहा
‘नहीं सर,’ नेगी ने कहा, जिसकी सच्चाई दूर-दूर तक प्रसिद्ध है. ‘उनकी नाक प्रथम विश्वयुद्ध के दौरान बंदूक की गोली लगने के कारण उड़ गई थी, जिसके बाद उन्हें हरज़ाने के रूप में विक्टोरिया क्रॉस दिया गया.’
‘और जब उनकी मौत हुई तब भी क्या वे अपनी नकली नाक पहने हुए थे?’ मैंने पूछा.
‘नहीं सर,’ बूढ़े नेगी ने कहा, और रस लेते हुए उसने कहानी को आगे बढ़ाया. ‘एक सुबह जब मैं साहिब के पास सुबह की चाय लेकर गया तब मैंने उनको वहां बिस्तर पर मृत पाया, बग़ैर नाक के! उनकी नाक बिस्तर के पास टेबल में पड़ी हुई थी. मुझे आज लगता है कि मुझे उसे वहीं छोड़ देना चाहिए था लेकिन, मि. मैक्कलिनटोक एक अच्छे आदमी थे, मैं ये बर्दाश्त नहीं कर सकता था कि पूरी दुनिया को उनकी नकली नाक के बारे में पता चले. इसलिए मैंने पहले उनकी नकली नाक को उनके चेहरे से चिपकाया फिर जाकर मैनेजर को उनकी मौत की सूचना दी. उनकी स्वाभाविक मृत्यु हुई थी, हार्ट अटैक से. लेकिन मैंने इस बात का पूरा ध्यान रखे कि उनकी लाश ताबूत में अपनी नाक के साथ ही जाए.
हम सब इस बात को मानते थे कि नेगी एक अच्छा आदमी था ख़ासकर बुरे वक्त में साथ देने वाला.
ऐसा कहा जाता है कि मि.मैक्किलनटोक का भूत आज भी होटल के गलियारों में भटकता रहता है, लेकिन अभी तक मेरा उससे सामना नहीं हुआ है. क्या वो भूत नकली नाक के साथ होगा? बूढ़े नेगी को लगता है नहीं(क्योंकि नकली नाक इंसान के द्वारा बनाया गया था), लेकिन उसने भी उस भूत को नज़दीक से देखा नहीं था, सिर्फ़ दूर से बीयर के बागीचे में लगे देवदार के दो पेड़ों के बीच से पीछे जाते हुए. वे देवदार के पेड़ कम से कम से दो सौ साल पुराने थे, होटल के बनाए जाने के पहले से, शायद इस हिल स्टेशन के बनने से पहले के हैं.
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बहुत सारे लोग जो बार में आया करते थे, वो सब अब जा चुके हैं, कभी-कभी तो मुझे जीवित और मृत लोगों में फर्क करने में भी दिक्कत आती है. लेकिन असल भूत तो वे होते हैं जो शराब पीने के बाद बग़ैर पैसा दिए गायब हो जाते हैं.
मुझे कभी भी गायब होने की ज़रुरत नहीं पड़ी. पिछले 5-6 सालों में मुझे जब भी सैवॉय बार के सहारे की ज़रुरत पड़ी है, ऐसा बहुत कम हुआ है कि मुझे अपनी शराब के लिए पैसे देने पड़े हों. इसकी वजह मेरा दोस्त नंदु है. आप इन पन्नों में कहीं भी नंदु के लिए कोई सख़्त शब्द नहीं पाएंगे. मेरे ख़्याल से उसने बहुत पहले ही ये तय कर लिया था कि मैं उसके शराब खाने के लिए एक अलंकरण के समान हूं, और वहां रखे स्टूल पर बैठा हुआ मैं ‘रे मिलैंड इन द लॉस्ट वीकेंड’ की तरह दिखता हूं. (उसे इस भूमिका के लिए ऑस्कर मिला था.)
हालांकि सेल का वो आदमी, जो अक्सर बार के दूसरे स्टूल पर बैठा रहता, वो अपने जैकी श्रॉफ़ समान मूछों के भी, उस शराबखाने की कोई शोभा नहीं बढ़ा रहा था. लेकिन मुझे ये मानना पड़ेगा कि वो शराब को गिलास में डालने, कॉकटेल्स बनाने और नशे में धुत्त महिलाओं को टॉयलेट रूम तक पहुंचाने में काफी पारंगत था. वो भी अपनी शराब के पैसे कभी नहीं चुकाया करता था.
तो फिर नंदु अपना खर्चा कैसे चलाता है? ज़ाहिर है क्योंकि वहां कुछ असली ग्राहक भी आते हैं, जिन्हें हम होटल के भीतर घर जैसा आराम देते हैं, हम उनके साथ गप्पें मारते हैं और उन्हें रॉयल सैल्यूट या फ्रांसिसी शराब बोजोलै पीने के लिए प्रेरित करते हैं. मैं इस रेस्त्रां का इतिहास किसी को भी मुंहज़बानी सुना सकता हूं जो सुनना चाहता हो; जहां तक सेल के उस व्यक्ति का सवाल है वो मुफ़्त में एंबुलेंस की सेवा लोगों को मुहैया कराता है जो होटल की मेहमाननवाज़ी को झेल पाने में असमर्थ होते हैं. सेल का वो आदमी शहर का नंबर एक ब्लड डोनर है, इसलिए अगर आपको किसी का खून चढ़ाया गया हो और उसके बाद आप पर खुमारी चढ़ी हुई है, तब आप जान सकते हैं कि किसके शरीर का खून आपकी धमनियों में बह रहा है. लेकिन वो असली स्कॉच होता है, सेल की पहाड़ियों की तलहटी में जो तरल पदार्थ बनाया जाता है, वो नहीं.
नंदु ने ही मुझे बताया था कि नोबल विजेता पर्ल बक, 1950 के आसपास हमारे होटल में कुछ समय के लिए ठहरी थीं. मैंने होटल के रजिस्टर से पता लगाने की कोशिश की तो हमेशा की तरह इस बार भी नंदु सही निकला. जहां तक मेरी जानकारी है मिस पर्ल ने अपनी किसी भी किताब में इस होटल या इस शहर के बारे में अपने अनुभवों का ज़िक्र नहीं किया था. जबकि ये जगह ऐसी है जिसके बारे में अक्सर लोगों के पास कुछ न कुछ कहने के लिए होता है. जैसे ‘मेलबर्न एज’ का वो कॉरसपॉन्डेंट जिसने तेज़ आंधी बारिश और तूफान के दौरान अपने कमरे की छत के उड़ जाने की शिकायत की थी. ये एक बेहद ही ओछी सी शिकायत थी. उसे शांत करते हुए नंदु ने कहा, ‘सर आपको दिल्ली में सिर्फ़ एक पांच सितारा कमरा मिल सकता है लेकिन यहां अपने रूम से आप आसमान में निकले सभी सितारों को देख सकते हैं!’ और सच में बादलों के छंटने के बाद वो ऐसा देख पाया.
इन पहाड़ियों के आसपास अक्सर तेज़ हवाएं चलती हैं, और चक्रवाती तूफान के दौरान हमारे यहां की लहरदार लोहे की छतें अक्सर उड़ जाया करती हैं. नेगी ने याद किया कि एक बार गर्मियों के दोपहरी में आये तूफान के बाद सेवॉय होटल की छत का एक हिस्सा उड़कर पांच मील दूर सेंट जॉर्ज स्कूल पर गिरा हुआ मिला था. यहां से वहां तक हवा में उड़ने के दौरान छत के उस हिस्से की चपेट में सुबह-सुबह कसरत करने वाला एक व्यक्ति भी आ गया था जिसका सिर उसके धड़ से अलग हो गया था. अगर ये कहानी मुझे किसी और ने सुनाया होता तो मैं हरगिज़ यकीन नहीं करता. लेकिन नेगी के शब्द बिल्कुल असली होते हैं—जैसे जॉनी वॉकर ब्लू लेबल पेग का एक घूंट.
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और ये रही एक तुकबंदी जो मैंने नंदु और सेल के उस आदमी के लिए लिखी है :
बहुत समय पहले एक युवा व्यक्ति हर चीज़ फिक्स कर दिया करता था,
ऐसा करने के लिए उसे सिर्फ़ पांच या छह मिनट लगते,
उसकी मूर्ति मिली है,
सेवॉय की पवित्र ज़मीन पर,
उसके बगल में नंदु भी मिला है,
पूरी तरह से ट्रांसफिक्सड!
पिछले कुछ समय से नंदु के मन में ये भावना आ रही है, या फिर कहें कि उसका सपना है, अगर आपको पसंद हो तो कि वो सेवॉय बार का नाम ‘द राईटर्स बार’ रख दें.
‘लेकिन वैसा करने के लिए तुम्हें यहां कुछ लेखकों को लाना होगा, है कि नहीं? मैंने कहा.
‘ठीक है, पर तुम भी तो एक राईटर हो, हो कि नहीं? क्या तुम्हारे और लेखक दोस्त नहीं हैं?’
‘बहुत मुश्किल से एकाध, और जिनको मैं जानता हूँ वे सब के सब चाय के शौकीन हैं. वो हेंमिग्वे टाइप वाले अब फैशन में नहीं हैं.’
‘पिछले साल जब मैं सिंगापुर में था, तब मैं दोबारा ऐतिहासिक रैफल्स होटल गया,’ नंदु ने कहा. ‘वो होटल उतना ही पुराना है जितना सेवॉय—और उनके यहां एक राईटर्स बार है जिसके दीवार पर तांबे का बैज लगा हुआ है, जिस पर लिखा हुआ है कि सोमरसेट मॉम वहां आए थे, उनके अलावा जोसफ़ कॉनराड और ग्राहम ग्रीन भी.’
‘ओह्ह, सभी बहुत ही शांत और गंभीर लोग थे,’ मैंने कहा.
‘हां लेकिन वे सभी वहां ठहरे थे, और उन्होंने ज़रूर ही वहां कभी न कभी बार में जाकर कोई ड्रिंक पी होगी, चाहे वो नींबू पानी ही क्यों ना हो.’
‘अपने अच्छे दिनों में सेवॉय में भी कुछ अच्छे लेखक आकर ज़रूर ठहरे होंगे.’
‘हां पर्ल बक यहां रुकीं थी. मेरे पास अभी भी एक किताब पर उनकी ऑटोग्राफ सुरक्षित है. उन्होंने नोबेल पुरस्कार जीता था, है कि नहीं?’
‘हां वो रुकीं थी, लेकिन इस बात का संदेह है कि वो कभी बार गई होंगी. जहां तक मुझे पता है वो मिशनरीज़ की बेटी थीं.’
‘तब तो ये ड्रिंक लेने का और भी बड़ा कारण है. वजह चाहे जो हो लेकिन वे यहां बीच-बीच आती ज़रूर होंगी. हम उनका नाम एक पीतल की पट्टी में लिखकर यहां दीवारों पर लगाएंगे.’
‘ठीक है, हम पर्ल बक का नाम यहां लिखेंगे.’
‘रुडयार्ड किपलिंग के बारे में तुम्हारा क्या ख़्याल है? वो भी यहां ज़रूर ठहरे होंगे.’
‘मेरे प्यारे दोस्त,’ मैंने कहा— ‘ये होटल साल 1905 में खुला था और तब तक किपलिंग भारत छोड़कर जा चुके थे, कभी न लौटकर आने के लिए.’
‘तुम मेरी मदद नहीं कर रहे हो,’ नंदु ने कहा. ‘जॉन मास्टर्स के बारे में तुम्हारा क्या ख़्याल है?’
‘मुमकिन है,’ मैंने कहा. ‘उन्होंने देहरादून के गुरखा रेजिमेंट में काम किया था. वे ज़रूर यहां पहाड़ियों में आया करते होंगे, और मुमकिन है कभी-कभी यहां ड्रिंक के लिए आए हों. यहां या फिर चार्लेविले में.’
‘चार्लेविले को भूल जाओ, वो काफी पहले जलकर राख हो चुका है. हम जॉन मास्टर्स के नाम की भी एक पट्टी यहां लगाएंगे. इस तरह से हमें दो लेखकों के नाम मिल गए.’
‘तो फिर हम होटल के पुराने बही खाते क्यों नहीं जांचते हैं?’ मैंने पूछा.
‘वो पुराना मैनेजर उसे अपने साथ ले गया,’ नंदु ने अफसोस से कहा.
‘शायद वो पर्ल बक का ऑटोग्राफ चाहता था.’
‘वो कौन शख़्स था जिसने विच्छेद घंटी के बारे में लिखा था?’ तुम्हें पता है न वो घंटी जो हर दिन सुबह चार बजे बजायी जाती थी ताकि लोग अपने-अपने कमरे में लौट जाएं.
‘मैंने उस घंटी के बारे में सुना है,’ मैंने कहा. ‘लेकिन मैं उसके लेखक का नाम नहीं जानता.’
‘सोमरसेट मॉम?’
‘मुझे नहीं लगता कि वो कभी मसूरी आए थे, वो कोई यात्रा वृतांत लिखने वाला लेखक था.’
‘गैंटज़र्स, बिल एटकिन?’
‘वे लोग अभी भी जिंदा हैं. लेकिन अगर तुम उन्हें अभी भी एक ड्रिंक के लिए आमंत्रित करो तो शायद वे अपना नाम यहां दीवार पर लिखने की इजाज़त दे दें.’
‘तुम्हारे कहने का मतलब एक मुफ़्त की ड्रिंक से है?’ नंदु इससे बहुत खुश नहीं था.
‘ज़ाहिर है.’
‘मुझे लगता है कि हमें उन लेखकों पर केंद्रित रहना चाहिए, जो अब जीवित नहीं हैं. पंडित नेहरू यहां रुके थे और वे एक राइटर थे.’
‘हां, नंदु. लेकिन मुझे नहीं लगता कि तुम उन्हें कभी भी इस होटल के बार में पाए होगे.’
‘सर एडमंड हिलेरी?’
‘हां उन्होंने अपनी आत्मकथा लिखी थी. शायद माउंट एवरेस्ट पर चढ़ने के बाद यहां एक ड्रिंक के लिए रुके थे.’
‘ठीक है, मुझे मिल गया! जिम कॉर्बेट!’
‘लेकिन वो नैनीताल में रहते थे,’ मैंने विरोध जताते हुए कहा. ‘मुझे संदेह है कि वो कभी भी यहां आए होंगे.’
‘उनके माता-पिता की शादी मसूरी में हुई थी. ये तुमने ही मुझे बताया है. और उन्होंने वो किताब भी लिखी थी, द मैनईटर ऑफ़ रुद्रप्रयाग. रुद्रप्रयाग यहां से सिर्फ 80 मील दूर है, आसमान के रास्ते.’
‘ठीक है-ठीक है और उस आदमखोर को मारने के बाद, कॉर्बेट पैदल चलकर मसूरी तक आए ताकि यहां सेवॉय में बियर पी सके. उस समय कोई मोटर रोड भी नहीं हुआ करती थी, नंदु. उन्हें सचमुच एक ड्रिंक की बेहद ज़रुरत होगी.’
‘ये पूरी तरह से मुमकिन है. वो काफी दूर-दूर पैदल ही यात्राएं किया करते थे.’
‘हां लेकिन आदमखोर जानवरों को मारने के लिए, बीयर पीने के लिए नहीं. लेकिन चलो हम उनके नाम की भी एक पट्टी यहां लगा दें सिर्फ़ इस वजह से कि उनके माता-पिता की शादी मसूरी में हुई थी. हम हमारे पास कौन-कौन हैं?’
‘पर्ल बक, जॉन मास्टर्स, जिम कॉर्बेट!’
पीतल की वो नाम वाली पट्टियां तैयार की जा रही हैं. राईटर्स बार का उद्घाटन वसंत में किया जाएगा. अगर कोई पाठक किसी उपयुक्त उम्मीदवार का नाम यहां शामिल करने के लिए लेकर आता है तो उसे एक मुफ़्त ड्रिंक दी जाएगी.
अगले ही दिन शाम को, जब मैं बार में बैठकर अपनी तीसरी विह्सकी की ग्लास खाली कर रहा था, तब रुडयार्ड किपलिंग की शक्ल का एक व्यक्ति वहां आया, वो बार तक चल कर गया और बारटेंडर उसने पूछा, ‘क्या तुम लोग आत्माओं को भी शराब पिलाते हो?’
इससे पहले कि हम उसे अपने साथ पीने का न्यौता देते, वो गायब हो चुका था.
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