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अगर पेरिस बेहतरीन रेड वाइन है तो रोम बहुत ही पुरानी व्हिस्की

आशुतोष भारद्वाज हिंदी-अंग्रेज़ी दोनों भाषाओं में समान रूप से लेखन करते हैं और उन समकालीन दुर्लभ लेखकों में हैं जो समय के चलन से हटकर लिखते हैं और इसके लिए समादृत भी हैं। इंडियन एक्सप्रेस की पत्रकारिता के बूते चार बार रामनाथ गोयनका पुरस्कार से नवाज़े जा चुके आशुतोष शिमला एडवांस्ड स्टडी में फ़ेलो रहे। अभी हाल में ही फ़्रांस में निर्मल वर्मा के साहित्य की स्त्रियों के ऊपर व्याख्यान देने गए थे। उनका चयन प्राग की ‘सिटी ऑफ़ लिटरेचर रेजीडेंसी फ़ेलोशिप’ के लिए किया गया है। प्राग का नाम आते ही निर्मल वर्मा का ध्यान आता है। असल में आशुतोष जी के गद्य में एक निर्मलीय धुन और सम्मोहन भी है। रचनात्मक गद्य कम लिखते हैं लेकिन जब लिखते हैं तो बार बार पढ़े जाने योग्य होता है। जैसे रोम और पेरिस पर लिखा उनका यह संस्मरण- मॉडरेटर

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             शेक्सपियर की बिल्लियाँ और रोम की दीवारें

“कहते हैं यहाँ कुंदेरा शराब पीने आया करते हैं।”

“यहाँ…आपने देखा कभी उन्हें?”

“नहीं, लेकिन कई लोग कहते हैं।”

हम पेरिस के होटल लुटेशिया के सामने खड़े हैं। वह ऐतिहासिक इमारत जिसमें द्वितीय युद्ध के दौरान अनेक लेखक, कलाकारों ने शरण ली थी और जब फ्रांस जर्मनी के कब्जे में चला गया यह होटल नाज़ी सेना का पेरिस में मुख्यालय हो गया.

“आपको कुंदेरा पसंद है?”

वह मुस्कुराने लगीं।

“मैं बहुत छोटी थी, जोक पढ़ा था। तुरंत बस पकड़ प्राग चली गयी। लम्बे समय तक वहीं रही।”

अब मैं मुस्कुरा रहा हूँ। कृष्ण बलदेव वैद और ज़ोर्ज पेरेक के बाद यह तीसरा उपन्यासकार है जिसके लिए मोहब्बत हम पिछले दो घंटे में साझा कर चुके हैं. उन्होंने फ़्रेंच में गुज़रा हुआ ज़माना पर पीएचडी की है। जिस संस्थान में इन दिनों शोध कर रहीं हैं वह फ़्रान्स के दिग्गजों की कर्मभूमि रहा है — रोलाँ बार्थ, देरिदा, फ़ूको और अब टॉमस पिकेटी।

थोड़ी देर पहले उन्होंने मुझे ‘कैफ़े दे ला मेयरी’ के बारे में बताया था जहाँ पेरेक कॉफ़ी पीने आया करते थे। हम दोनों वहीं गए, पेरेक की मुद्रा में बैठकर कॉफ़ी पी। पेरेक मुझे पिछली सदी के महानतम फ़्रांसीसी उपन्यासकार लगते हैं, काम्यू और सार्त्र से कहीं ऊपर।

 बात मेरी बस्तर किताब पर मुड़ती है, वह सहसा पूछती हैं: “आप माओवादी हैं?”

“नहीं…एकदम नहीं हूँ।”

“बट यू कैन बी वन…देरिदा माओवादी थे।”

“लेकिन शायद उस अर्थ में नहीं जिस तरह भारत में माओवादियों को देखा जाता है। मुझे नहीं लगता देरिदा ने कभी ऐके-४७ उठाई होगी या गोली चलाने का सोचा होगा।”

यह अक्टूबर चौबीस की दोपहर है। परसों धूप थी, कल बादल और बूँदें, आज तेज़ हवा के बीच हम पेरिस की गलियों में चल रहे हैं। वह उस सैलों की तरफ़ इशारा करती हैं जहाँ सिमोन और सार्त्र आया करते थे।

कल मैं पैरे ला’शेज गया था, पेरिस का सबसे बड़ा क़ब्रिस्तान. मुझे इसके बारे में पहले नहीं मालूम था, लेकिन किसी ने ज़ोर देकर कहा था कि वहाँ ज़रूर जाना। पूरा दिन क़ब्रों के बीच भटकता रहा — सिर्फ़ दो क़ब्र देखीं। पहले बाल्ज़ाक, ‘द अननोन मास्टरपीस’ का लेखक। कलाकार के जीवन पर इससे महान कहानी मैंने नहीं पढ़ी। एक असंभव आकांक्षा के पीछे कुर्बान होता जाता कलाकार. मार्क्स ने कभी अपनी तुलना इस कहानी के नायक के साथ की थी. क़ब्र के सामने बैठ किंडल पर उस कहानी के कई अंश पढ़े। क़ब्र के ऊपर बाल्ज़ाक की मूर्ति लगी हुई थी।

प्रूस्त की क़ब्र खोजने में बहुत देर लगी। बाल्ज़ाक तो एकदम सड़क पर हैं, प्रूस्त थोड़ा भीतर सोए हुए हैं। प्रूस्त की काली क़ब्र पर दो काग़ज़ पत्थर से दबे रखे हुए थे। पहला किसी रॉबर्ट का था, उसने मेट्रो की टिकट पर लिखा था — ‘थैंक्स फ़ोर द बुक्स…वट्स अप?’

दूसरा किसी रेशल ने लिखा था, सुनहरे रंग की हेयर क्लिप से काग़ज़ को दबा दिया था  — ‘चेर मार्सेल चेर…रेशल।‘

काग़ज़ पर कई सारे दिल काढ़ दिए थे।

बाद में याद आया मेरी किसी कहानी की नायिका का नाम रेशल था।

काफी देर से कब्रों के बीच एक बिल्ली घूम रही है. लगभग ऐसी ही भूरी-चितकबरी बिल्ली मैंने शेक्सपियर एंड कम्पनी में देखी थी. पियानो के बगल में, किताबों की शेल्फ के सामने बेंत की कुर्सी पर मुंह फेरे सो रही थी — ऐगी द कैट.

सिल्विया बीच। शेक्सपियर एंड कम्पनी की संस्थापक। हेमिंग्वे, एलियट जैसे लेखकों की दोस्त, बैंकर और डाकिया — सब एक साथ। जब कोई यूलिसिस को छूने तक की हिम्मत नहीं कर पा रहा था, सिल्विया ने इसे पहली बार १९२२ में प्रकाशित किया था। कहते हैं इंग्लैंड, अमरीका, आयरलैंड और फ़्रान्स को जोड़ने में सिल्विया ने जितना काम किया उतना इनके राजदूत मिल कर भी नहीं कर पाए।

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बीस अक्तूबर.इतवार.

बुधवार सुबह उठा तो एक चिड़िया काँच की दीवार के बाहर पड़ी हुई थी। रॉबिन चिड़िया। इसके शरीर पर कोई निशान नहीं था। बौराई आँखें। घर में दो बिल्लियाँ हैं, लेकिन उन्होंने इसकी हत्या नहीं की थी। यह भूख, बीमारी या गर्मी की मौत नहीं लग रही थी।

बाद में मालूम हुआ यूरोप के इन शहरों में तेज़ गति से उड़ते आते परिंदे अक्सर पारदर्शी काँच की दीवारों को भाँप नहीं पाते। अपनी देह और हवा की पूरी शक्ति के साथ काँच से टकराकर ढह जाते हैं।

पारदर्शी मृत्यु।

दोनों बिल्लियाँ विकट चंचल. जब घर के अन्दर होंगी, बाहर जाने के लिए दरवाजे पर पंजे मारेंगीं. बाहर होंगीं, तो अन्दर आने के लिए मचलेंगीं. इन्हें ब्रेक्जिट कैट का नाम दिया गया है.

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छब्बीस अक्तूबर.

कल निर्मल को गए एक साल और हुआ।

बस्तर जाने से पहले जीवन में सिर्फ़ दो इंसानों को जाते देखा था, अपने हाथों से लकड़ियों पर लिटाया था — मेरे बाबा और निर्मल।

कल का दिन उस शहर में बीतना था जहाँ मृत्यु की वह कथा दर्ज हुई थी जिसे निर्मल ने बीसवीं सदी की सबसे महान कहानी कहा था — डेथ इन वेनिस।

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ऐलिस रोम में थियेटर करती हैं. साधारण थियेटर नहीं, उनकी छोटी सी रेपरतरी लोगों के घर जाती है, उनके हॉल में नाटक खेलते हैं। लेकिन यह उनकी माँ के बारे में है जो इटली में लम्बे समय तक क्रांतिकारियों के साथ जुड़ी रहीं फिर सहसा भारत चली आयीं. इसके बाद उनके भारत के फेरे लगने शुरू हो गए — राजस्थान, कलकत्ता, गोवा। जब ऐलिस के पेट में तीन महीने की संतान थी वह चली गयीं। उनकी इच्छा थी कि उन्हें हिंदू रीति से जलाया जाए, उनकी अस्थियाँ गोवा के कैलांगुटे बीच पर बिखेर दी जाएँ। उनका अंतिम संस्कार रोम में हुआ। क्रीमटॉरीयम के कर्मचारियों ने दो दिन बाद एक छोटा सा कलश बेटी को सौंप दिया। बेटी देखती रही — माँ इत्ते में समा गयी थी।

साल भर हो गया। ऐलिस के बेटा हुआ, दस महीने का हो गया। अब बेटी माँ की अंतिम इच्छा अपने भीतर लिए जी रही है।

कुछ दिन बाद ऐलिस के कहे को याद करते हुए मुझे न जाने क्यों ऐके रामानुजन की वह आत्मकथात्मक कहानी याद आयी जिसमें मैसूर का एक युवक ऐन्थ्रॉपॉलॉजी पढ़ने शिकागो चला जाता है इस उम्मीद में कि पश्चिमी शिक्षा उसे भारतीय रूढ़ियों से मुक्ति दिला देगी। वह ख़ुद को पश्चिमी ग्रंथों में डुबो देता है, दिन रात लाइब्रेरी में बैठा पढ़ता रहता है कि एक दिन उसे भारतीय रूढ़ियों पर एक किताब दिखती है  जिसके हिंदू विधवाओं पर एक अध्याय में उसकी माँ की तस्वीर है। माँ का सर मुंडा हुआ है। इस तरह उसे अपने पिता की हालिया मृत्यु के बारे में पता चलता है।

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कहते हैं रोम में कहीं भी हाथ भर खुदाई करो किसी पुरानी इमारत के अवशेष निकल आयेंगे. अनेक महारथियों द्वारा बसाया गया शहर, विराट रोमन साम्राज्य का स्वप्न, जिसे बाद में चर्च ने अपना अभेद किला बना लिया. पता नहीं कवि ने कैसे लिख दिया ‘रोमा मिट गए जहाँ से’. रोम बहुत ही धड़कता हुआ शहर है. किसी चौराहे पर कोई वजीर राज-हत्या की साजिश रच रहा है, किसी दीवार पर एक प्राचीन चित्रकार के रंग अभी भी गीले हैं, कहीं पुल पर एक स्त्री रोमन सैनिक को चूम रही है, कोई पादरी धरती की चौसड़ पर अपनी चाल चल रहा है.

रोम नहीं मिटने वाला। अगर पेरिस बेहतरीन रेड वाइन है तो रोम बहुत ही पुरानी व्हिस्की.

सेक्युलर कहा जाता यूरोप मुझे अक्सर ईसाईयत की इमारत दिखाई देता है, जिसका आईना है रोम. चर्च की शक्ति और उद्भव का शहर. छाती को चीरती सीन नदी के बगैर पेरिस पेरिस नहीं होता, चर्च के बगैर रोम न होता.
लेकिन यह चर्च निरापद नहीं है. पहली बार मैं चर्च और कथीड्रल से अभिभूत हो गया था, दूसरे दिन सहसा मुझे लगा कि इटली का रेनिसां सिर्फ एक कलात्मक उद्घोष नहीं था, इसकी गहन धार्मिक-राजनैतिक हसरतें थीं जिन्होंने यूरोप और पूरी दुनिया को बदल देना चाहा था. जब वेटिकन के पादरियों ने तत्कालीन महान कलाकारों को चर्च और कथीड्रल की दीवारों पर पेंटिंग्स और फ्रेस्को बनाने का दायित्व सौंपा, वह पेंटिंग्स जो यूरोप को दुनिया के सिंहासन पर बिठाती थीं, एशिया और अफ्रीका को हीन प्रजातियों का इलाका दिखाती थीं जिन्हें अपने अधीन किया जाना था, तब इस रेनिसां कला ने साम्राज्यवाद के आरंभिक बीज बो दिए थे. धर्म और कला के अद्भुत घालमेल के जरिये यह राजनैतिक सन्देश यूरोप में फैला चर्च ने दैवीय और कलात्मक शक्ति एक साथ हासिल कर ली थी. वेटिकन और उसके रची गयी कला ने यूरोप-केन्द्रित विश्व की परिकल्पना की. चर्च ने ईसाई जगत में यहूदी और इस्लाम विरोधी संवेदना को भुनाया जिसकी परिणति बीसवीं सदी के युद्धों में हुई.

रोमन चर्च की कलात्मक भव्यता अचंभित, इसकी राजनैतिक क्रूरता आतंकित करती है.

द्वितीय युद्ध के दौरान रोमन चर्च ने पहले मुसोलिनी और फिर हिटलर के साथ अनुबंध कर लिया था, यहूदियों पर हो रहे अत्याचार से मुँह मोड़ लिया था. मैंने फ़्रांस में एक म्यूजियम देखा था जो कभी यहूदियों का डिपोर्टेशन कैंप हुआ करता था. इस म्यूजियम में वेटिकन और हिटलर के बीच हो रहे समझौते के दौरान खींची गयी तस्वीर टंगी थी. तस्वीर में वेटिकन के शीर्ष पादरी और हिटलर के अधिकारी समझौते पर हस्ताक्षर कर रहे थे.

जब एक रात मैं रोम की सड़कों पर घूम रहा था, मुझे बैंच पर एक कृशकाय इन्सान काली चादर ओढ़े सोता दिखाई दिया. उसके पैरों पर रंगीन मोज़े रखे हुए थे. बहुत देर तक जब वह आकृति बेहरकत नजर आई, नजदीक गया. वह कोई कलाकृति थी. एकदम मनुष्य के आकार की, शीर्षक था – होमलेस जीसस.

आखिर रोम में ही जीसस को बेघर होना था.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

*

रोम में मेरे एक पियानो-वादक मित्र संगीतकार ब्राह्मज़ पर किताब लिख रहे हैं। एक शाम वह मेरे लिए बाख बजाते हैं, फिर यूरोप के महान संगीतकारों के बारे में बतियाते हैं। बीथोवेन जीनियस था जिसने सभी नियम तोड़ दिए, नयी परिभाषाएँ गढ़ीं। बाख के पास विलक्षण शब्दावली थी, संगीत को तराशने की ऐसी कला किसी के पास नहीं थी। मोजार्ट के पास वह  सरलता थी जो दैवीय शुद्धता के बाद ही हासिल होती है।

‘लेकिन तुम ब्राह्मज़ पर काम क्यों कर रहे हो?’

‘क्योंकि वह प्रेमी था, उसके भीतर प्रेमी की आत्मा बसती थी।‘

 
      

About Prabhat Ranjan

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