जानकी पुल – A Bridge of World's Literature. जानकी पुल पर प्रकाशित लेखों में प्रकट विचार लेखक के होते हैं. उनसे मॉडरेटर का सहमत होना जरूरी नहीं है. हाँ, अपने लेखों में प्रकट विचारों के लिए मॉडरेटर खुद जिम्मेदार है
राकेश तिवारी के यात्रा वृत्तांत ‘पहलू में आए ओर-छोर : दो देश चिली और टर्की’ पर प्रसिद्ध लेखिका मनीषा कुलश्रेष्ठ की टिप्पणी। पुस्तक का प्रकाशन सार्थक, राजकमल ने किया है-
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यात्रावृत्तातों की शैली में रोचक प्रयोग, मीठी व्यंजना, लोक भाषा के प्रयोग, पुरावेत्ता ( जिसे वे स्वयं भू सुंघवा कहते हैं) होने की सूझ-बूझ राकेश तिवारी जी को बाकि डायरीनुमा, बोझिल यात्रावृत्तांत लिखने वाले लेखकों से अलग करती है। जहां ‘सफर एक डोंगी में डगमग’ रोमांचक नौका यात्रा का वृत्तांत था, वहीं 2019 में प्रकाशित ‘पहलू में आए ओर-छोर : दो देश चिली और टर्की’
में इन दो देशों की अंदरूनी यात्राओं का विवरण है । सांतियागो में ‘ कनेक्टिंग वर्ल्ड हैरिटेज साइट्स एंड सिविलाइजेशन’ पर ‘ कोलंबस पूर्व अमेरिकी – एशिया संबंधों और भारतीय मंदिरों पर उल्लेखनीय प्रेंजेंटेशन के बाद विश्व विरासत वाल परासियो और विश्व के सबसे ऊंचे रेगिस्तान ‘अताकामा-कलामा’ की यात्रा के किस्से अनूठे बन पड़े हैं। एक नये संसार की ओर खुलता वातायन है यह किताब जिसमें लेखक बेहद रोचक बनारसी हिंदी में जब-तब कमेंट्री देते चलते हैं। मैंने अपनी पिछली रेल यात्रा में चिली वाला हिस्सा पूरा किया था।
दूसरा हिस्सा टर्की वाला हिस्सा एक आख़िरी टुकड़ा मिठाई का समझ कर सहेजे हुई थी। भला हो कोरोना लॉकडाउन का।
‘कुस्तुन्तुनिया’ की यात्रा के अभूतपूर्व अनुभव और विवरण। राकेश जी लेखनी में वह रवानी है, वह बनारसी मौज है कि मैं जानती थी इसमें वो होगा जो मेरी कल्पनाओं ने भी कल्पना में न सोचा होगा। टर्की और हगिया सोफिया लड़कपन से मेरी ‘विश लिस्ट’ में रहा है। वे कोई नया वितान रचेंगे यह मैं जानती थी। यह किताब सिरहाने रखी ललचाती रही। दो दिन पहले हर वक्त नेटफ्लिक्स देखते रहने के कुटैव को त्याग किताब उठा ली। दूसरी बुरी आदत मेरी कि पसंदीदा किताब हो तो मार्कर से रंग देना, जहां हंसना/रोना/ चकित होना पड़े स्माइली बना दिया। सो मैं किताब इस आदत के चलते किसी को उधार दे नहीं सकती। खैर….
इस किताब में बस पहली ही पंक्ति से आप भीतर उतर जाते हैं और लेखक की वैश्विक प्रसिद्धि महत्ता और विद्वता के बरक्स नितांत सरल पारदर्शी व्यक्तित्व से प्रभावित हुए बिना नहीं रह सकते।
जिसने उनकी पिछली किताब ‘ एक सफर डोंगी में डगमग’ पढ़ी होगी वे पाएँगे कि वह युवक जो ‘डोंगी’ चलाने के जुनून को कहां तक ले गया, कि दिल्ली से कलकत्ता पानी के रास्ते चल पड़ा था और आज पुरातत्व के महारथी, आर्कियोलॉजिकल सर्वे ऑफ इंडिया के महानिदेशक और पुरातत्व की वैश्विक सेमिनारों में प्रमुख तौर पर बुलाए जाने वाले ‘ राकेश तिवारी’ जी ने इस आयु के लंबे अंतराल में भी वह यात्रा उत्सुक खोजी युवक जाने कौनसा कौनसा लेप लगाकर बचा कर रखा है। अपने सहयात्रियों के प्रति आनंदी भाव और उनके रोचक नामकरण का सिलसिला यहां भी है। हर बाज़ार, बस्ती, नदी, नहर के प्रति वही औत्सुक्य और भाषा में वही बनारसी भाषाई कौतुक, लोक मुहावरों के रस में डूबी भाषा जो गुदगुदा जाए पाठक को।
मसलन ‘ लहुरा वीर’ बने सहयात्री।
तुर्की यात्रा जाने की भूमिका भी उतनी ही लाजवाब, रोचक है कि शुरूआत से ही उत्सुकता में डुबोती जाती है पाठक को कि लेखक जी इतनी जगह आमंत्रित हैं पदों पर आसीन होने को। तुर्की जाएंगे ? कहीं दिल्ली – प्रेसिडेंसी कॉलेज डेरा जमाने न चल दें! फिर वीज़ा को लेकर आखिरी दिन तक असमंजस कि हाय वीज़ा न मिला तो!
खैर लेखक जी टर्की पहुंचते हैं, विशेष वीज़ा के साथ। इस्तांबुल यानि पच्छम के गांधी अतातुर्क के शहर। हगिया सोफिया के शहर। वे रोचक जानकारी देते हैं टर्किश इतिहास और पिछली सदी की राजनीति की। अतातुर्क को मैं भी ‘गांधी इन वैल स्टिच्ड सूट’ की ही तरह जानती रही हूं और हगिया सोफिया को सम्यक उदाहरण — बावरी मस्जिद और रामलला की जन्मस्थली का सुचिंतित हल मानती रही थी कि यह चैप्टर बहुत पसंद आया मुझे। इस पुस्तक में एतिहासिक विवरण भी मजे कराते हुए अतीत को अलग तरह से खोलते जाते हैं। फिर चाहे वह ‘ युवा तुर्क’ और ‘ केताब’ जैसे शब्दों की यात्रा हो? या पकवानों को लेकर जानकारी।
लेखक जी, सबकी रुचियों का ख्याल रखते हैं। मेरी हैरानी की शुरुआत तब हुई जब ‘ चूड़ियाँ-बिंदियाँ -हिना’ वाला हिस्सा पढ़ा कि कैसे टर्किश लड़कियों को बॉलीवुड, भारतीय बिंदी और मेंहदी पसंद आती है। जबकि हम देसी लड़कियां तो खुद लड़कपन से तुर्की और अरैबिक मेंहदी डिज़ायनों की दीवानी रहती हैं।
इस किताब की विशेषता यह भी है, अगर आपकी रुचि में जिज्ञासा शामिल हो तो….कि आँखों देखे हाल के चलते आप तिवारी जी के साथ सेमिनार हॉल में भी जा बैठते हैं। जिन सभ्यताओं के नाम इतिहास पढ़ते सुने थे, उन के पुरातात्विक विशेषज्ञों संग पहली पंक्ति में बैठने, बतियाने में खुद को हैरत में पाते हैं। लेखक के पास हिंदी, उर्दू, संस्कृत, ग्रीक-रोमन-मूरिश – टर्किश ऐतिहासिक शब्दावली, अंग्रेजी, संस्कृत और लोक शब्द-संपदा भर कर है । वे कई जगह अंग्रेजी शब्दों की तो हँसाने वाली आनंदी हिंदी कर देते हैं, टर्की वाले हिस्से में खासतौर से विवरणों में आई उर्दू की चाशनी गला तर करती चलती है। टर्किश पकवानों से यहां से वहां तक भरे दस्तरख़ान के बावजूद सूखी ब्रेड और छछिया भर छाछ पी जाने की शाकाहारी दिक़्क़तों पर हंसी आती रही।
यिल्दिज पार्क की अनूठी सैर से लेकर वैश्विक सेमिनार के ओपनिंग से लेकर टर्की के अन्य स्थानों में हुए सैशनों में दमसाधे बैठा रहता है पाठक । और मंच से लेखक नील, फ्रात, अनातोलिया, मेसोपोटामिया, सेल्यूकिया और मलय सभ्यताओं की बात करते हुए सिंधु घाटी के किनारे आ लगने के बाद हिंद की अस्तित्वहीनता पर सवाल करते हैं तो, पाठक दुखद हैरानी में डूब जाता है कि फिर समूचा भारत? मेरा लेखक से इत्तफ़ाक़ शामिल हो जाता है। क्या सभ्यताओं के बड़े नामों में हमारी गंगा तट पर बसी आदि सभ्यता कहीं रेखांकित नहीं?
कि हमारा देश ऐसा है कि मकई तक को लाने का श्रेय कोलम्बस को मिल जाए। तब लेखक मंच से पावरपॉइंट प्रेज़ेंटेशन के ज़रिये एक के बाद एक सबूत पेश करते है जब प्राचीन कई कालों में हमारे मंदिरों में देवी देवताओं के हाथों में मकई के भुट्टे हाथों में उकेरे गये थे।
मैं मेवाड़ी हूं, और मकई वहां मेक्सिको वालों की तरह पारम्परिक तौर पर खाई जाती है, खूब उगाई भी जाती है। रोटी, राब, खीच, दलिया, पकोड़े, हलवा, मकई के ढोकले, कच्चे भुट्टे की दाल, बर्फी, पापड़ यानि मकई हर चीज़ में। जबकि राजस्थान के दूसरे सूबों में तो बाजरा, ज्वार चलता है। कोलम्बस के मकई लाने वाली बात पर मेरा भी शक बना रहा था और राकेश जी के तर्कों पर सांस में सांस आई।
यह किताब तुर्की को भौगोलिक, ऐतिहासिक, सामाजिक विविधताओं में खोलती है। दिल्ली की तरह मिट मिट कर बसने वाले इस्तांबुल शहर को नये ढंग से देखने की नज़र मिली। अदीयमान नगर का नामकरण मजेदार लगा। टर्की के कुर्दिश इलाकों की सैर के ज़रिये जाना कि कुर्दिशों का तुर्की राजनीति में ऐसा अहम स्थान क्यों है यह जानकारी हैरत में डाल गयी। आज भी ईराक़ , सीरिया से लगे हल्के की कुर्दिश लड़कियों का संघर्ष सिहरा जाता है।
नेमरूत के पुरावशेष अद्भुत लगे। ईस्ट टर्की की सैर और उसके ग्रीक कनेक्शन ने मेरी जानकारी में बहुत इज़ाफ़ा किया। इस इलाके के संदर्भ में हेलेन और हेलेनिस्टिक ब्यूटी वाला प्रंसग बहुत ही रोचक लगा। मैं यहां अपनी जानकारी जोड़ दूं कि मैंने कहीं पढ़ा था कि जो हम भारतीय महिलाएं उलटे पल्ले की, प्लीट डली साड़ी पहनती हैं, वह चंद्रगुप्त की पत्नी देवि हेलेन ही ने ईजाद की थी।
तुर्किस्तान बहुत विविध है, हम सोचते हैं उससे कहीं अधिक, बारह हज़ार साल पुराने गोबेक्ली टेपे ( टीले और स्तंभ) चकित कर गये। सालिम ऊर्फा की सैर भी आँखों देखी सी लगी पुरानी मस्ज़िदें, मीनारें, मुसाफ़िरखाने, गली कूचे…..लेखक हमें सूफ़ियों के ज़माने की कल्पना में ले जाते हैं। अब्राहम की गुफ़ा और अनजिलाह झील! के ज़िक्र के बीच सीरियाई शरणार्थियों के डेरों ने उदास कर दिया।
नफ़ीस नीले मौज़ेक तो तुर्किस्तान की शान हैं, लेखक हमें इतिहास में गुम इस मौज़ेक के पुराने ग्रीक मौज़ेक म्यूज़ियम में ले जाते हैं। वहां मौज़ेक से बनी बहुत जीवंत जिप्सी गर्ल के फोटो को किताब में देख- सोच कर ही गूज़बम्प्स आ जाते हैं तो हक़ीक़त में कितनी खूबसूरत होगी।
तैमूर का ज़िक्र भी इस किताब में अलग ढंग से आता है। वहशी कि ग़ाज़ी! उसके कारनामे संसार को हिला गये थे। उसे पता था कि मैं इतना बड़ा आततायी रहा हूं कि एक रोज़ दुनिया मेरी कब्र खोलेगी और ….. उसकी घोषणा कब्र के पत्थर पर दर्ज़ है। क्या? यह आप स्वयं किताब में पढ़ें।
तुर्की का एक प्राचीन पुरातात्विक महत्व का सिरा ‘सिल्क रूट ‘ का एक कोना है जिसे अपनी यात्रा में लेखक छू कर आए हैं। यह संस्मरण पढ़ कर मेरे मन में पुरानी किताबों में पढ़ कर जागीं तुर्की और अरबी सरायों की फैंटसी जाग जाती है और तुर्की संगीत का ज़िक्र भर कानों में छंग / ढफ़ / झाँझ और सरोद जैसे बरबत की धुनें कानों में घोल देता है।
रास्तों के तुर्की शहतूत के दरख़्त! आह!
जब किसी आदि सभ्यता के तार दूसरी और खासतौर से अपनी सभ्यता से जुड़ें तो मन ब्रह्मांड बन जाता है और चेतना पक्षी। लेखक इसमें जिज्ञासु और माहिर दोनों हैं और किताब उनकी इन मंशाओं का ख़ज़ाना। हिट्टाइट इतिहास और इंडो आर्यन बोली, गज़ब!! पज़ारी, मुसिफिर, दुर जैसे शब्दों के सफ़र ने पाठकीय हैरत में इज़ाफ़ा किया।
लेखक की अंगोरा की सैर के बहाने अंगोरा वूल का स्त्रोत जाना। टर्की में भी गजब प्राकृतिक, सामाजिक, ऐतिहासिक विविधता है। अनातोलिया और सैंट ऑगस्टस के रोमन मंदिर वाह ! इस्तांबुल वापसी पर हगिया सोफिया नीली मस्जिद और टर्किश पारम्परिक बाजार …..की सैर।
राकेश तिवारी जी के पास यात्रा – वृत्तांत को जीवंत बनाने वाले अनेक अनजाने, छिपे एतिहासिक संदर्भ तो हैं ही उनके पास अथाह शब्द हैं और उनको बरतने का नितान्त मौलिक ढंग जो उनके यात्रा वृत्तांतों को खास बनाता है। यात्रा-वृत्तांत लिखने वाले लेखकों में उनका नाम भविष्य में अलग से रेखांकित अवश्य होगा।
वाह, क्या कहने।
………..भला हो कोरोना लॉकडाउन का…………….
काश इस मौके से मैं भी कुछ ज्ञान बटोर पाता, फिलहाल तो मनीषा मैडम की टिपण्णी से ही आनंदित हो रहा हूँ।
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