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एडिनबरा के भूमिगत भूत: मनीषा कुलश्रेष्ठ

प्रसिद्ध लेखिका मनीषा कुलश्रेष्ठ का गद्य बहुत सम्मोहक होता है। इस यात्रा वृत्तांत में तो वह और भी निखार का आया है। आप भी पढ़िए-

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स्कॉटलैंड एक रहस्यमयी और सपनीला टुकड़ा है इंग्लैंड का। मैं तो स्कॉटलैंड को अलग देश मानने से भी गुरेज़ न करूं। ठीक वैसे ही जैसे कि चीन और तिब्बत। उस पर एडिनबरा दुनिया के सुंदर शहरों में से एक, यही वजह है कि यह शहर लेखकों, दार्शनिकों, चित्रकारों, वैज्ञानिकों का शहर क़रार दिया जा चुका है। इस शहर की सुंदरता से एक अजब रहस्यमयता भी लिपटी है, क्योंकि यह शहर अनेकों युद्धों, दुरभिसंधियों, क्रांतियों, षड्यंत्रों, महामारियों, आततायियों का गवाह भी रहा है। एडिनबरा में प्रवेश करते ही आपको एक मध्ययुगीन शहर में, किसी यूरोपियन इतिहास के गलियारे में चलने-फिरने की सी अनुभूति होती है। प्राचीन और मध्यकालीन अट्टालिकाओं वाले किसी चौक पर रंगीन कांच वाली चर्च में गूंजते घंटे, सुरीली प्रेयर। दूर कहीं से सुनाई देती मनमोहक बैगपाईप की धुन और कॉट्सवूल के चैक की स्कॉटिश नेशनल ड्रेस ‘किल्ट’ पहने गोरेचट्ट बैगपाइपर्स।

एक ओर मछुआरों का रिहायशी समुद्री इलाका तो दूसरी ओर मनमोहक हरे-भरे हाईलै्ंड्स की ओर बुलाता स्कॉटिश संगीत। विविधता का अतिरेक है यह शहर। एक ओर डॉली भेड़ को क्लोन की तरह पेश कर चुके इस शहर के जीव- वैज्ञानिक, दूसरी ओर स्वामिभक्त कुत्ते बॉबी ग्रेफेयर की आत्मा में यकीन रखते उसकी बरसी मनाते एडिनबर्गी जन।

यूं ही तो नहीं एडिनबरा पहुंचते ही मुझे अपने बचपन के शहर चित्तौड़गढ़ की बेतहाशा याद आई थी। वहां की तरह यहां भी तो एक किला पूरे शहर पर निगाह सी रखे रहता है, एक बुज़ुर्ग संरक्षक की तरह। वहां की भी हवाओं में यहां की तरह बहुत भुतहा कहानियां डोला करती थीं। मुझे जो पसंद थी वह थी मम्मी के कलीग, चिरकुमार शक्तावत माट्साब की एक जौहर से भाग निकली दुल्हन के भूत से रूमानी मुठभेड़ की कथा। वो कहानी फिर कभी…

जब हम ऑक्सफ़ोर्ड से ट्यूब-ट्रेन में स्कॉटलैंड जाने के लिए बैठे थे तो मेरे मन में एक यूरोपियन पहाड़ी शहर की सुंदरता का सपना बसा था। हम सात घंटे ट्रेन में इंग्लैंड-स्कॉटलैंड की प्राकृतिक सुंदरता का आनंद लेते हुए शाम चार बजे एडिनबरा पहुंच गये थे। थोड़ा आराम करके, होटल के कमरे में पड़े रहने का मन न हुआ तो पैदल ही हम दोनों शहर की नब्ज़ टटोलने निकल पड़े थे। पहली ही नज़र में शहर ने मोह लिया था। वह शाम भीगी-भीगी सी थी। शहर क्या था एक कैलाइडोस्कोप ही था, हर दस कदम पर दृश्य बदल जाता था। कासल, क्लॉक-टॉवर्स, बगीचे, महल, पुराने टैवर्न जो पबों में बदल दिये गये थे, मध्ययुगीन पथरीली गलियां, म्यूज़ियम, लाइब्रेरियाँ। पूरे शहर के आलीशान मार्गों को जहाँ तहाँ जोड़ती काटती धूसर गलियाँ भी थीं तो नहरें भी।

किसी से पूछ कर रॉयल माईल के लिए हमने एक शॉर्ट कट लिया जो एक बड़े क़ब्रगाह से ग्रेफेयर किर्क से होकर जाता था। एक गली से चढ़ कर किर्क पहुंचे तो वहां एक विशाल उपवन के बीच ढेर सारी क़ब्रें थीं। जिनपर खूबसूरत नक्काशियों वाले समाधि पत्थर लगे थे, कोई कब्र तो छोटे-मोटे भवन जैसी थी, जिसके द्वार पर कहीं बेहद सुंदर देवदूत बने हुए थे। कुछ क़ब्रों पर युवा परियां मुस्कुराती हुईं। कुछ क़ब्रों पर शैतानी चेहरे, खोपड़ी भी बने थे।

समाधि लेख कोई सादा, कोई कवितामय, कोई बाईबिल की पंक्ति में संबोधित, कोई रूह से निकली आह-सा, सोलहवीं, सत्रहवीं, अठारहवीं सदी में दिवंगत हुए अजनबी लोगों के नामों को संबोधित। मौसम के उतार चढ़ावों ने कई समाधि पत्थरों को गिरा दिया था। जमी हुई हरी काई और घास पर खिले सफेद फूल, दीवारों पर लटकी आईवी की बेलें किसी पेंटिंग जैसा माहौल बना रहे थे। सघन पेड़ और उनकी गहरी हरी छायाएं अजीब-सा रहस्यमय अंधेरा रच रहे थे। मैं क़ब्रों पर मृतकों के नाम पढ़ते पढ़ते चलने लगी, अंशु आगे आगे थे। उनको ऐसी मनहूसियत कतई पसंद नहीं। अंशु को तो ताजमहल तक इसलिए नहीं पसंद है कि वह दो मृतकों की मज़ार भर ही तो है। तो उनको यह हजारों क़ब्रों से भरा क़ब्रगाह कैसे पसंद आता? लेकिन मैं तो मरी जा रही थी क्योंकि कुछ क़ब्रें इतनी सुंदर और बड़ीं थीं कि आप उनके निकट रुके बिना नहीं रह सकते थे। अद्भुत मूर्तियाँ और नक्काशीदार डीटेल्स क़ब्रों के, कुछ तो कमरों जितनी बड़ी, गुंबदों सहित। उस पर मेरे अंदर का सनकी कथाकार, जिसे बीते-गुज़रे हुए लोगों का भूतकाल जानना बहुत प्रिय है। हर वह जो अपनी कथा कहे बिना सो गया, उसकी कथा जानना मेरा प्रिय कर्तव्य हो मानो।

वैसे मैं महाडरपोकचीं हूँ। किसी फिल्म का कोई हॉरर सीन देख लूं तो रात में अकेले किचन में पानी तक न लेने जा सकूं। उस रोज़ जाने कैसे बेख़ौफ़ उन क़ब्रों के बीच घूम रही थी। यकीनन, एक अजीब-सा ठंडापन ज़रूर वहां था। सुई-पटक सन्नाटे में अचानक जाने कहां से हवा की कोई भूली-भटकी तरंग आती थी, हैरत की बात यह कि उससे महज एक डाली हिलती, या एक अकेली पत्ती घास की। किसी दीवार पर ऊँघती बिल्ली अचानक जाग कर अँगड़ाई लेती। रेवन कव्वों का झुंड बेआवाज़ किसी कब्र पर आ बैठता। झीनी-झीनी सिहरन और मीठे भय का सब साजो – सामान वहां था पर मैं अटपटी लय से धड़कते दिल की बात माने बिना वहाँ विचर रही थी। मानो किसी बहुत अपने की कब्र पर फ़ातिहा पढ़नी बाकि हो।  अंशु नहीं खीजते तो मैं हर कब्र के सरहाने बैठती थोड़ी -थोड़ी देर। एक सलेटी बादल लगातार मेरे साथ चल रहा था। सीलन के घेरे में था सब कुछ। सूखी पत्तियों पर चलते अपने ही पैरों की प्रतिध्वनियाँ चौंका रही थीं।

एक पुरानी कब्रों के समूह के पास से गुज़रते हुए अचानक आखिरी कब्र के पास से मुझे गुलाबों की महक आने लगी। मुझे लगा कोई लोबान जलता होगा मगर उस पर तो कई लेयर्स में सूखे पत्ते पड़े थे। यह एक भूली-बिसरी कब्र थी। समाधिलेख पर काई जमी थी मगर नाम और तारीख मैंने कोशिश करके पढ़ ही लिये, बारबरा वॉकर (24 अगस्त 1821 – 12 जुलाई 1849) किसी युवती की कब्र थी, मन दरक गया। घना जंगली चैरी का वृक्ष उसे घेरे था। समाधि पत्थर में दरार थी, कब्र के बीच का पत्थर भी बीच में धंस गया था। सिरहाने एक छोटा सा पिलर था जिसपर दुधमुँहे दो एंजल्स उड़ रहे थे। क्या युवा मां रही होगी बारबरा? गुलाबों की महक सघन थी, खूब स्पष्ट शायद आस-पास कोई बगीचा खिला हो गुलाबों का पर ढलान के पार तो बाज़ार और सड़क थे। कब्र पर घास थी उस घास में अलबत्ता घास की नन्हें फूल खिले थे जिन्हें तोड़ कर सूंघा, वे निर्गंधी थे। मैंने फुसफुसा कर पूछा – बारबरा क्या यह तुम्हारा होना है? उसी क्षणांश में साथ चलता सलेटी बादल फुहार बरसाने लगा। वॉशरूम की तलाश में बहुत आगे निकल गये अंशु ने पुकारा – मन्नो बारिश!

मैं बारबरा से विदा लेकर भागी। जाने क्यों मन किया खुद ही गढ़ लूं कोई कहानी उसकी। कौन होगी बारबरा पति की प्यारी या प्रेमी की? क्या गुलाबों से बेइंतहां प्रेम था उसे? क्या वह हर गुज़िश्ता राही का उस महक से इस्तक़बाल करती होगी? या केवल……..क्या मैं…. कोई परिचिता उसकी किसी जन्म की। अंशु का ऊब से भरा चेहरा देख मैंने अपने जंगली बेपर के ख्यालों को लगाम दी। सर झटका और क़ब्रगाह के एग्ज़िट गेट पर निगाह डाली।

हम उस किर्क यार्ड से निकलने को ही थे कि मुझे वहां एक लेख-पट्ट दिखा जिसपर लिखा था कि यह क़ब्रगाह अनेकानेक प्रसिद्ध – अप्रसिद्ध लोगों की समाधियों के लिए जाना जाता है। ख़ास तौर पर तीन चीजें यहां उल्लेखनीय हैं। पहली – बॉबी नाम के स्की टैरियर कुत्ते की समाधि। बॉबी अपने पुलिस अधिकारी मालिक की जॉन ग्रे की समाधि पर चौदह साल बैठा रहा, लोग उसे वहीं खाना-पानी दे आते थे। यह सिलसिला तब तक चला जब तक कि उसकी स्वयं की मृत्यु न हो गयी और उसे वहीं मालिक के बगल ही में दफ़नाया गया। प्रचलित है कि लोगों को बॉबी की आत्मा इस हरे भरे ग्रेवयार्ड में घूमती दिख जाती है। इस स्वामिभक्त कुत्ते और इसकी वायवीय उपस्थिति को बहुत स्नेह मिला है एडिनबरा में।

दूसरी प्रचलित धारणा यह कि रॉयल मिले के आस-पास इसी इलाके में सत्रहवीं सदी में एक आततायी शासक किंग जेम्स षष्ठम ने लगभग पांच सौ स्त्रियों को डायन करार कर जला कर मार डाला था। उसके मन में डायन, जादूगरनियों के खिलाफ पागलपन की हद तक डर और क्रोध भरा हुआ था कि समूचे शहर से टोकने-टोटकों करने वाली, भविष्य बांचने वाली, जड़ीबूटियां रखने वाली या बूढ़ी मानसिक बीमारी से ग्रस्त औरतों को उनके घर से निकाल-निकाल कर आए दिन ज़िंदा जला दिया जाता था। शहर के लोग कहते हैं उन स्त्रियों की भी खाक़ इस क़ब्रगाह में डोलती है। जिंदा जला दी गयी उन औरतों की दबी – दबी चीखें सुनाई देती हैं। आयरनी देखिए न, उनमें से कुछ औरतें तो चिकित्सा-विज्ञान में विश्वास करने, घर में प्रयोगशाला रखने के गुनाह में जला दी गयीं थीं और हम उनकी भुतहा चीख़ों को सच माने बैठे हैं।

तीसरी धारणा, एक मैकेंज़ी नामक शासक था जिसने मजलूमों पर अत्याचार किये उसकी कब्र भी यहां है। उसकी भटकती रूह इस क़ब्रगाह में लोगों को दिखी है।

मुझे इस ग्रेवयार्ड से निकलते – निकलते यकीन हो चला था कि विश्व के सबसे अधिक भुतहा शहर की तरह एडिनबरा को क्यों चिन्हित किया गया होगा। एक तो ज़ाहिर सी वजह थी…..यहां का खून सना अतीत। दूसरी व्यवसायिक वजह, गेट के दायीं तरफ़ भूतों पर आधारित पर्यटन यानि ‘घोस्ट टूर’ करवाने वाली एजेंसी का साईनबोर्ड लगा था। मुझे हंसी आई कि लोगों की ‘पराभौतिक’ जिज्ञासाओं को उकसा कर पैसे उगाहने का पर्यटन – प्रंपच भी यहां समानांतर चलता रहता है। यहीं क्यों समूचा यूरोप तरह – तरह के टूर कराने में माहिर है। जब मैं वेनिस में थी तो वहां रात में ‘कैसेनोवा टूर’ भी लोकप्रिय था कि कैसे कैसेनोवा अपनी विवाहिता प्रेमिकाओं के पतियों से, जेलों से निकल कर भागा करता था। एक हम भारतीय हैं, अपनी बहुमूल्य धरोहरों को संभालने में सबसे पिछड़े। ख़ैर उस रोज़ तो हम रॉयल मिले घूम कर लौट आए, बारबरा वॉकर की गुलाबों वाली महक मेरे ज़हन को महकाती रही।

एडिनबरा यूरोप के अन्य पुराने शहरों वेनिस, फ्लोरेंस की तरह ही। छोटा है कि वहां आप तीन दिन रहें तो पूरा नक़्शा ज़बानी याद हो जाए। ऐसे शहर पैदल घूमने के लिए बने होते हैं, यह मैं और अंशु बखूबी समझते हैं और खूब पैदल चल कर अनूठे अनुभव बटोरते हैं।  हम ठहरे तो एडिनबरा के नये वाले इलाके में थे मगर मुझे मध्यकालीन रूमानियत से रचा-बसा पुराना एडिनबरा अपनी ऐतिहासिक इमारतों और संकरी गलियों से लुभाता रहता था और जब-तब हम टहल कर वहीं पहुंच जाते थे। शहर के हर हिस्से से अपने नूर में ग़ाफिल एडिनबरा कासल और कासल से ठीक सामने की पहाडी पर बनी आर्थर्स सीट उस कलात्मक वातावरण को और अधिक सम्मोहक बनाते थे। ऐसे में यह शहर लेखकों का शहर कहलाए जाने योग्य क्यों न बनता? जितना यहाँ के लेखक इस शहर से प्यार करते आए उतना ही मान इस शहर ने अपने लेखकों को दिया है। कवि-लेखक वॉल्टर स्कॉट की प्रतिमा और उसका गुम्बद तो शहर की सबसे ऊंची इमारत हैं।

तीन दिन रह कर, खूब पैदल घूम कर हम जान चुके थे कि एडिनबरा का पुराना शहर जितना सतह के ऊपर है, उतना ही अपने अंडरग्राउंड अंधेरी – संकरी गलियों और तहखानों में भी है और बहुत-सी बीती सदियों के अतीत को यह पुराना शहर गलियों, अंडरग्राउंड पासेज़ में अब भी जीता है। कल्पना की जा सकती है कि शहर के ऊपरी शाही नगर के समानांतर इन निचली गुप्त गलियों के गुंजलों और मजबूत तहखानों को सैकड़ों साल पहले कभी व्यापारियों, लुटेरों, दासों, ठगों, सस्ती वेश्याओं, नौकरानियों, परित्यक्त मजलूम स्त्रियों जैसे चरित्रों ने किस रोचक ढंग से आबाद कर रखा होगा।

इतिहास से परे इन गलियों और इनमें घटी घटनाओं को साहित्य की किताबों और कलाकारों के चित्रों में दर्ज किया गया है। लेकिन फिर भी इन गलियों के अनगिनत किस्से अभी तक अनकहे है। एक कलाकार और लेखक जानता है अट्टालिकाएं, सुरम्य बगीचे इंसान की कहानी का केवल आधा हिस्सा होते है, बाकि आधा वे इलाके जो भद्र समाज द्वारा उपेक्षित छोड़ दिये जाते हैं। मेरे जैसे कई दीवाने टूरिस्ट हैं जो एडिनबरा की सुरम्य सड़कों के आकर्षण के बरक्स इन रहस्यमय गुप्त गलियों में आमजन से भी निचले स्तर का जीवन बिताने वाले लोगों के गुप्त इतिहास में भी उतनी ही रुचि रखते हैं।

इन गुप्त-गुंजलों को यहां वॉल्ट कहा जाता है। वाल्ट यानि तहख़ाने। इतिहास गवाह है कि ये कभी एडिनबरा की मूल सड़कें थीं, बाद में बनी संरचनाओं को इनके शीर्ष पर बनाया गया था। कभी जीवंत रही इन गलियों को दफना कर और उन्हें ख़ज़ानों, सुरंगों, तहखानों, महामारियों से पीड़ित लोगों को निर्वासित रखने के स्थानों में बदल दिया गया था।

ये वाल्ट्स मूल रूप से पहले शहर के दक्षिण पुल के नीचे के मेहराब थे, इनका उपयोग व्यापारियों द्वारा किया जाता था। बाद में यह नदी का पुल होने के कारण, बहुत नमी के चलते अनुपयोगी हो गया था। नतीजतन, शहर के सबसे गरीब निवासी इन क्लस्ट्रोफोबिक, अंधेरे और असुरक्षित वाल्टों में चले गए। लेकिन बाद में यानि 1985 तक ज्यादातर वाल्ट मलबों से भर गए और कुछ ठीक स्थिति वाले भूमिगत हिस्सों को ऐतिहासिक विरासत, भुतहा करार कर पर्यटन स्थलों में बदल दिया गया था।

मुझे भुतहा जगहों का व्यवसायीकरण कतई उत्सुक नहीं करता, सो पैम्फलेटों में छपे ऐसी किसी जगह के ‘घोस्ट टूर’ में तो मेरी दिलचस्पी नहीं थी मगर मैं एक खिसकैले टूरिस्ट की तरह इन गुप्त गलियों को देखना ज़रूर चाहती थी। सब कुछ समय पर निर्भर था कि पहले मुख्य – मुख्य पर्यटन स्थल तो देख लिए जाएं। जब हमने पूरा शहर, किला, सारे कासल्स, म्यूज़ियम, झीलें, क़ब्रगाह घूम डाले। तब एक शाम प्राचीन सराय (टैवर्न, जिसे पब में बदल दिया था) में बैठ कर मैंने अंशु को मना ही लिया कि अब ब्लेयर स्ट्रीट अंडरग्राउंड वाल्ट्स में घूम कर आया जाए। अंशु जानते हैं मैं क्लस्ट्रोफोबियक हूं, सुरंगों-तहखानों से डरती हूं। वे हैरान थे कि मैं हर वह अजीब चीज़ कर रही थी वहां जो पहले मैं करने की सोच नहीं सकती थी। शहर की अट्टालिकाओं, शॉपिंग एलीज़ को छोड़ कर कब्रगाहों, मछुआरों के गांव की सैर, कार्ल्टन पहाड़ी की थका देने वाली परिक्रमा और अब हवाओं में घुले बीत चुके मनुष्यों को लेकर उत्सुकता। हमेशा की तरह मेरी तलाश तो कहानी थी चाहे वह भूत सुनाए कि भविष्य।

पहले हम ब्लेयर स्ट्रीट अंडरग्राउंड वाल्ट्स की तरफ़ गए। हम कुछ सीढ़ियाँ उतर कर एक छोर से उसमें दाख़िल हुए । मेरी हैरानी के लिए आरंभ में तो वे काफ़ी चौड़ी पत्थर जड़ी गलियां थीं। धूसर अंधेरों के बीच उनमें कहीं-कहीं रोशनदान भी नज़र आते रहते थे। कई जगह विकट चढ़ाई और सुरंग साथ आ जाते तो अंधेरे में अपना हाँफना ही डरा देता था।  इस दौरान कई बार ऐसा हुआ जब मेरी त्वचा काँपने लगी और मेरा दिल मेरी पसलियों के खिलाफ हो गया। मैं उन सुरंगों में बहती अजीब ठंडी लहर की अनुभूति को व्यक्त नहीं कर सकती। मगर वह रह-रह कर मुझे इतिहास के गुमनाम अँधियारे पक्षों के बारे में सोचने को मजबूर कर रही थी। कैसा होगा यहां जीवन?

ऐसी जगहें भुतहा महत्व की होती हैं। यही वजह थी कि यहां हमारे साथ एक छोटा टूरिस्ट-ग्रुप भी चल रहा था जो ‘घोस्ट टूर’ वालों का प्रायोजित था। हमारे लिए आसानी हो गयी कि हमारे आगे कुछ लोग मोमबत्तियाँ लिये चल रहे थे।

एक अधेड़, लाल जैकेट काली पैंट वाला गाईड उनको एडिनबरा के काले डरावने इतिहास में गोते लगवा रहा था। जो मेरी जानकारी के हिसाब से बेशक झूठ तो नहीं ही था। जिस अधिकार से वह बोल रहा था वह मध्यकालीन इतिहास का खासा जानकार था।  उसके पास मनोरंजक कहानियां थीं और उनको सुनाने की रोचक कला। यह सकारात्मक बात थी कि टूर वालों ने अपने अमरीकन टूरिस्टों के लिए कोई नकली भूतिया माहौल रचने की बेजा-फूहड़ कोशिश नहीं की थी। पर वह माहौल तो अपने-आप बना-बनाया था। जब कोई मोटा चूहा चिंचियां कर छत पर उलटा चलने लगता या अचानक कोई सुरंग मोड़ लेती और सामने किसी मेहराब पर किसी पोपले मुंह लंबी ठोड़ी वाले बूढ़े जादूगर के मुंह की मूर्ति लगी मिलती तो समूह की महिलाएं पहले तो सिहर कर दबी-सी चीख निकालतीं, फिर रोमांच से खिलखिला कर हंस पड़तीं।
हम चुपचाप अलग भी मगर  इस ग्रुप के पीछे भी साथ-साथ चलते रहे एक अनुभव की तलाश में।  यहां से निकल कर सड़क पार कर हम एक दूसरे अंडर पास ‘द रियल मैरी किंग्स क्लोज़’ में दाख़िल हुए।  ‘मैरी किंग क्लोज़’ एक अच्छी-खासी चौड़ी भूमिगत सड़क है, जो 17 वीं शताब्दी में वापस साफ करके उपयोग में लाई गई थी। विश्व-युद्धों के सबसे खराब समय के दौरान, इसे हवाई हमलों से बचने के लिए भी इस्तेमाल किया गया था। क्लोज़ एक बंद गली के लिए प्रयोग आने वाला स्कॉटिश शब्द है। यह भूमिगत जगह 16 वीं और 19 वीं शताब्दी के बीच के एडिनबरा के वास्तविक जीवन और इतिहास की झलक पेश करती है। कभी यह सड़क जो मैरी किंग के नाम पर बनी थी, एडिनबरा की व्यवसायिक हलचलों का केंद्र थी। दरअसल मैरी किंग 17 वीं शताब्दी के एक अमीर वकील की बेटी थी, जिसके पास इस ‘क्लोज़’ में कई गूढ़ ख़ज़ाने थे। जो पता नहीं बाद में लुटपिटा गये। यहां पहले वाली इमारतों का निर्माण एकदम सही तरीके से किया गया था, लेकिन अधिक सम्पन्न लोगों ने इस जीवंत बाजार के ऊपर नया शहर बसा कर इसे एक रहस्यमय भूमिगत भूलभुलैया में बदल दिया था। बाद में यही अपराधिक गतिविधियों का गढ़ बन गया। यहां बमुश्किल रोशनी पहुंचती, पानी के साथ इनमें मलबा भी चला आया। जब चूहों ने इनको आबाद किया तो कोई आश्चर्य की बात नहीं है कि प्लेग इस क्षेत्र में बुरी तरह फैल गया। जब ऐसा हुआ तो यहां के निवासियों सहित एडिनबरा शहर के अनेकों संक्रमित निवासियों को इस भूमिगत इलाके में बंद कर इसके बाहर निकलने वाले रास्तों को सील कर दिया गया और बस बिना इलाज मरने के लिए छोड़ दिया गया।

इस भूमिगत भूलभुलैय्या में चलते हुए तीन-चार बार मेरा मन घबराया, मगर अब तो इसके निकास द्वार तक पहुंचने तक हौसला बनाए रखना था। अंशु दिलचस्पी से ‘घोस्ट टूर’ वाले गाईड की बकबक सुन रहे थे।

मैं भूतों में विश्वास करती हूं या नहीं यह मुझे नहीं पता, पर मेरा भी बचपन आगरा की अपने ननिहाल की विशाल कोठी के गलियारों और छतों पर घूमते भूतों की कहानियां सुनते, डरते बीता है। सो चलते-चलते वही बचपन वाला डर रीढ़ पर बर्फ के टुकड़े सा फिर जाता था तो मैं अंशु का हाथ पकड़ लेती थी। मुझे ठीक – ठीक नहीं पता कि हमारे आगे चल रहे ग्रुप के गाईड ने इस वॉल्ट में मिलने वाले भूतों के बारे में बताया कि नहीं क्योंकि जब वो लोग एक तहख़ाने में भीतर घुसे थे तो हम सीधे आगे निकल आए थे।

इस टेढ़ी-मेढ़ी गली के आगे एक दालान-सा था, जो कभी चौराहा रहा होगा। एक जगह चलते -चलते मुझे अपने बगल से छोटे-छोटे कदमों की पदचाप सुनाई दी। जैसे कोई बच्चा चप्पल घसीट कर चलता हो। मगर मेरे बगल में तो मोटी पत्थर चिनी दीवार थी, अंशु दांयी तरफ़ चल रहे थे, बड़े बड़े संतुलित डग भर कर। पहले क्षण में, मैंने इसके बारे में ज्यादा नहीं सोचा। मेरे मस्तिष्क ने स्वत: ही इसे पृष्ठभूमि की कोई गूंज मान छोड़ दिया। फिर भी मेरे पारदर्शी चेहरे पर उलझन आ ही गई थी, अंशु ने पूछा – क्या हुआ?

“मुझे किसी के चलने की आवाज़ सुनाई दी, वो भी किसी बच्चे के चप्पल घसीट कर चलने की…..“ मेरी आवाज़ ठंडी थी।

“ हेहे, मन्नो ! ज़रूर किसी भूत का बच्चा होगा बेचारे की चप्पल टूट गयी होगी।“

अंशु हंसे, मेरा डरना उनका मनोरंजन होता है। मुझे खीज हुई फिर भी

मैंने उनका हाथ थाम लिया, मन को समझाया ज़रूर चूहे कुछ छीन-झपट कर रहे होंगे।

तभी ‘घोस्ट-टूर ग्रुप’ वाले कही किसी शॉर्ट कट सुरंग से निकल कर हमारे आगे फिर से आ गये। अब गाईड चौक में खड़ा बता रहा था –

“ 1645 में, जब एडिनबरा में ब्यूबोनिक प्लेग तीव्रता से फैल गया। शहर का यह हाल था कि हर कोई या तो बीमार था या बीमार की देखभाल कर रहा था। स्थानीय राज्य-परिषद ने गुप्त रूप से इस पूरे इलाके को बंद कर दिया था। जो कोई अंदर था, बीमार या स्वस्थ बस फंसा हुआ था, मानो बस मरने के लिए छोड़ दिया गया हो। कुछ वर्षों के बाद, इसे फिर से खोला गया और साफ किया गया। उसके बाद हमेशा के लिए इस सड़क को ‘दुखों की सड़क’ के रूप में याद रखा गया। भले ऐतिहासिक रिकॉर्ड में यह क्रूरता दर्ज़ नहीं है मगर पुराने लोगों ने आने वाली पीढ़ी को ज़बानी यह बात बताई है कि ऐसा भी हुआ था, उनमें कुछ सर्वाइवर भी थे जिन्होंने अपने बच्चों और बच्चों के बच्चों को बताया कि ऐसा होने पर नागरिकों, डॉक्टरों और नर्सों ने उन्हें खाने-पीने की चीजें दीं, उनको बंद तहखानों से बाहर निकाला।“

तभी उस गाईड ने एक बच्ची भूत एनी का ज़िक्र किया और मेरा चेहरा फक पड़ गया। अंशु ने भी मुझे देखा और शैतानी से मुस्कुरा दिये। कथा यह थी कि ब्यूबोनिक प्लेग के समय अपने माता-पिता द्वारा एनी वहां अपनी गुड़िया संग छोड़ दी गयी थी। वह कब कैसे मरी यह तो कोई नहीं जानता। लेकिन यह बात फैली गयी कि एनी की आत्मा अपनी खोई हुई गुड़िया की तलाश करती है। वहां से गुज़रने वालों के कपड़े हौले-हौले खींचती है।

आगे हम बढ़े तो एक अजीब-सा बिना दरवाजों का कमरा गुड़ियों-खिलौनों, कपड़ों से भरा पड़ा था। यहां आने वाले लोग एनी के नाम पर ये सब छोड़ कर जाते हैं। बहुत से लोग पैसे भी। साल भर के इकट्ठे खिलौने और पैसे वहां के सिटी काउंसिल वाले लोग गरीब-अनाथ बच्चों की संस्थाओं को बांट देते हैं।
वहां से हम बाहर निकले और मैंने गहरी-गहरी सांसे लीं। रॉयल माईल पर ही हम एक बार में बियर पीने बैठ गये। अंशु चुपचाप बियर पीते हुए सोच में गुम थे। मैं कॉफ़ी मग से उंगलियां सटाए मन ही मन, पांव घिसट कर चलने और गुड़िया ढूँढने वाली एनी की मुक्ति की प्रार्थना कर रही थी। हमारे भारतीय दर्शन में मुक्ति ही अंतिम शरण है फिर वह मुक्ति भूतयोनि से हो कि भूतकाल से। यह मुक्ति भ्रम से हो कि सत्य से।

 
      

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