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‘सोचो अगर हम इंडिया न गए होते, तो इंडिया आज कहाँ होता?’

नॉर्वे प्रवासी डॉक्टर प्रवीण कुमार झा ने ‘कुली लाइंस’ किताब लिखकर इंडियन डायस्पोरा की दास्तान सुनाई। आज स्वाधीनता दिवस के दिन वे परदेस में भारतीय होने का मतलब समझा रहे हैं। उनकी और जानकी पुल की तरफ़ से सबको आज़ादी मुबारक-मॉडरेटर

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गाड़ियों की सस्ती-टिकाऊ सर्विस के चक्कर में गाड़ी-मिस्त्री के शहर आना-जाना होता है। यहाँ गाड़ियाँ कम, कबाड़ अधिक है। वे गाड़ियाँ जो कभी गाड़ी रही होगी। कॉन्टेसा भी है, इम्पाला भी। और विन्टेज़ मर्सीडीज़ भी, जो कभी वैभवशाली रही हो। अब भी उसकी बोनट पर कंपनी का सितारा चमक रहा है, बाकी गाड़ी भले घिस गयी।

 मैंने जैसे ही उस मद्धिम रोशनी वाले वर्कशॉप के अंदर कदम रखा, मेरे पैर से कुछ गोल सी चीज टकराई और फिसल कर एक सिगरेट फूँकते अधेड़ व्यक्ति को जा लगी। कद-काठी रंग-रूप से सत्तर के दशक का हिप्पी, जिसके चेहरे पर झुर्रियाँ आ गयी हैं और सफेद बाल कुछ भूरे से हो चले हैं।

 “अरे, संभाल के! यह जानते भी हो, क्या है? यह पॉन्टैक जी.टी.ओ. का मोटर है। 1967!”

 मैंने माफ़ी माँग ली, और कुछ देर यूँ ही बतिया कर बाहर आ गया। मुझे काम था, जो मैं भूल गया था। यह जगह मेरी उम्र से पुरानी थी। जैसे टाइम-मशीन मुझे सत्तर के दशक में ले आया हो, और मेरा वर्तमान खो गया हो। वहीं कहीं मसेराती और जैगुआर के कलपुर्जों के बीच।

 बाहर कुछ फ्लोरोसेंट सिंथेटिक कपड़ों में ग्रीस में नहाए छुटभैये मिस्त्री बैठे गप्प मार रहे हैं। मैं भी वहीं कहीं नेपथ्य में विलीन हो गया। मुझे शुबहा था कि मैं नेपथ्य में गुम हो जाऊँगा, लेकिन उन सबकी नजर मुझ पर ही थी। गोरों के मध्य एक भूरे व्यक्ति का नेपथ्य में गुम होना उतना ही कठिन है, जितना भूरों के मध्य गोरे व्यक्ति का।

 “इंडियन?”

 “हाँ!”

 “आखन! देखो! तुम्हारा वंशज आ गया।” उसने हँस कर कहा।

 उसकी हँसी नॉर्वेजियन हँसी नहीं थी, क्योंकि उसके दाँत दिख रहे थे। उसके जबड़े भी क्रोमैग्नन बनावट के थे। ऐसे जबड़े पाँच-दस हज़ार वर्ष पूर्व ही होते होंगे।

 “तुम इसे मज़ाक समझते हो? इनके देश के कई लोग वाकई हमारे वंशज हैं।” आखन ने एक लकड़ी की बेंच के सिरे पर टाँग दोनों तरफ फैला कर बैठते हुए कहा।

 आखन तुर्क था। इसलिए नहीं कि वह सिगरेट चिलम की तरह दोनों मुट्ठियों के बीच रख कर पी रहा था, बल्कि इसलिए कि यहाँ हर तीसरे उस कद-काठी के मजदूर तुर्क ही है।

 “वंशज तुम्हारे नहीं, मेरे हैं!” एक भारी-भरकम आवाज के साथ एक हृष्ट-पुष्ट व्यक्ति धम्म से, सामने वाली बेंच पर बैठ गया। उसके बाल काले घने पोनी-टेल थे, और हाथ में कॉफ़ी का मग। यह जो भी था, मेरा पूर्वज किसी कोण से नजर नहीं आ रहा था।

 “तुम तो छूकर लौटे थे। हमने राज किया है, टीटो!” आखन ने अपना मुक्का मेज पर मारते हुए कहा।

 “छूकर नहीं लौटे। हमने ही ढूँढ कर दिया इंडिया को। वास्को! वास्को द गामा!”

 “वही वास्को, जिसे भारत के तट से दौड़ा-दौड़ा कर भगाया था हमने?”

 “अरे, तुम क्या भगाओगे? तुम्हारे पूरे जहाज को समंदर में डुबो दिया। इतिहास पढ़ो इतिहास!”

 “हमने सदियों तक राज किया। पूरे इंडिया पर। ये लोग मानेंगे नहीं, लेकिन शाजाँ तुर्क था।”

 “हम सबसे पहले आए, और सबसे बाद में गए। इनमें हमारा खून है।”

 “तुम पुर्तगालियों को क्या मिला? काली मिर्च और हल्दी? सुना है, वह भी खरीदने के पैसे नहीं थे और राजा ने निकाल बाहर किया था?”

 “हम कहाँ से गए थे? कैसे गए थे? अफ्रीका के नीचे पागल समंदर में खौलता पानी। कई तो रास्ते में जल-भुन कर मर गए। तुम तो पड़ोस में गए।”

 “खौलता पानी! क्या बकवास करते हो, टीटो! तुम बस घूमते रह गए, मिला कुछ नहीं। सारी मलाई कोई और मार गया।”

 “आखन! राह हमने ही दिखाई। फ़्रांस को भी, ब्रिटेन को भी। उससे पहले कौन जानता था इंडिया?”

 “राह तुमने नहीं, हमने दिखाई। तुम्हारे वास्को को भी हम लेकर गए थे।”

 “अच्छा! तुम मुसलमान भला क्यों ईसाईयों का साथ देने लगे?”

 “हमें क्या मालूम था कि तुम धोखेबाज़ निकलोगे?”

 “पुर्तगाली कभी धोखा नहीं देते आखन!”

 “तुमने जिस थाली में खाया, वहीं छेद किया। हमारा इंडिया का धंधा अपने कब्जे में कर लिया। जिसके मेहमान बने, उसी को लूट लिया?”

 “लूटने की बात तो तुम न ही करो। हमने बिज़नेस किया। लूट-पाट तुम्हारा काम है।”

 “खूब देखी तुम्हारी बिज़नेस दुनिया ने। पुर्तगाली भारत न आते तो ब्रिटेन भी न आता।”

 माहौल गरम हो चला था, लेकिन हवा ठंडी थी। मेरे हाथ अब भी जेब से निकलने की हिम्मत नहीं कर रहे थे। आखन और टीटो की आवाज भी जितनी मुझे सुनाई दे रही थी, उतनी शायद औरों को नहीं। हर मेज पर एक सा कोलाहल था। यहाँ तुर्क-पुर्तगाली भिड़े हैं तो कहीं पोलिश और जर्मन। सब की आँखें लाल हो चली है। सिगरेट के धुँए अलग-अलग निकल कर भी जैसे केंद्र में मिल रहे हैं और चिमनी की तरह साथ ऊपर जा रहे हैं।

 टीटो का वास्को-द-गामा कोझीकोड आया तो था। वहाँ के समुथिरी राजा ने आव-भगत भी की। और मुसलमानों से पुर्तगालियों की अन-बन भी हुई। लेकिन, यह बात तो अब पुरानी हुई। उतनी ही पुरानी जितना उस क्रोमैग्नन का जबड़ा। न जाने वह कहाँ चला गया? शायद टीटो-आखन के वाक्-द्वंद्व से पक गया। या यहीं कहीं कलपुर्जों के बीच खो गया, मेरे वर्तमान की तरह?

 “…सोचो अगर हम इंडिया न गए होते, तो इंडिया आज कहाँ होता?”

 मैं बीच की कई बातें नहीं सुन सका। यह टीटो या आखन में किसी एक ने कही, तो ध्यान गया।

 “वहीं होता। और कहाँ होता?”

 “हम न जाते, कोई और जाता। अच्छा हुआ कि हम गए। और बुरा हुआ कि तुम गए।” टीटो ने तिरछी मुस्की देकर आखन को देखा। आखन ने एक घूँसा टीटो के थुलमुल पेट पर दे मारा।

 “ठीक है। अब काम पर चलें? मेरा सिगरेट ब्रेक खत्म हुआ। मुझे बस तीन मिलते हैं, और तुम्हें?”

 आखन, टीटो और तमाम लोग वापस लौट रहे थे। बेंच खाली हो रही थी, और मशीनों का नया कोलाहल शुरु हो रहा था। मर्सिडीज़ के सितारे में चमक अब भी थी। उसके खोए हुए वैभव में जैसे मेरे, आखन और टीटो का मिला-जुला अक्स था। अब वह अधेड़ हिप्पी बाहर आकर बैठ गया था। उसके साथ जैसे मेरा खोया हुआ वर्तमान भी लौट आया। मैंने अपने हाथ जेब से निकाले और किंडल पर आशीष नंदी का एक लेख पढ़ने लगा। शीर्षक था- ‘द इन्टिमेट एनिमी’।

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About Prabhat Ranjan

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